JADAM Liquid Fertilizer— My Most Favorite and Cheapest Input
What is JADAM and what is JLF? How can this make your growing better? If independence is your name, this is your game. Read up, my self-sufficient friends!
Who are the masters of farming? Is it the farmers or is it the chemical companies that make pesticides and fertilizers?
At one time, it was the farmers who knew the land and knew how to manage growing systems. The farmers had knowledge passed down from generation to generation for how to effectively grow on their own land. Today, it seems like most need their local Ag rep to tell them the accepted product and application to deal with anything. How do we take back that control and bring farming back to farmers in a practical way? Enter JADAM.
JADAM is an acronym for a Korean-based farming method that stands for Jayonul Damun Saramdul. This name means “people who are like nature.” It is a method of growing that believes in and follows the wisdom of nature. If you read my last article “Who Fertilizes The Forests?”, you know that this is my jam, pun intended.
The goal of JADAM is high yield, high quality, and low cost based on common sense and simple principles that anyone can easily follow. It brings back self-sufficiency and independence. It restores sovereignty to growers in harmony with nature, instead of fighting against it. These are soil-building practices that make land richer and more fertile every year instead of depleting it. Can you tell yet that I love JADAM?
How JADAM fertilizes
In JADAM, all inputs are made by the grower and they are very simple to make. One of my favorite things from JADAM is JADAM Liquid Fertilizer (JLF). Perhaps you remember that plants eat from decomposition? JLF is a method of decomposing things that are native to your area so that the nutrients and microbiology are there at the ready to feed plants. Within 15 minutes of application, the plant is already benefiting from the nutrients in JLF.
“…go out to the mountains, fields, grasslands and ask nature, ‘Do you grow plants in rotation?’ The answer was unequivocal: ‘No. I do not farm in rotations. I plant the same species in the same place again and again.’
“There is no such concept as rotational growing in the wild.”
— JADAM Organic Farming, Youngsang Cho
If we look at how nutrients are recycled in nature, we see that monoculture thrives. Leaves, branches, fruit, roots — parts of the whole plant — fall to the soil to be eaten by microbes and recycled to the land. All of the nutrients and minerals that were held by that plant for its growth are returned to the soil to feed the next season’s growth. The crop residue is what stays with the land and makes the forest greener and healthier as the years go by. It doesn’t increase disease risk, it helps to eliminate risk by ensuring appropriate nutrient availability.
Nature fertilizes in a closed nutrient loop with crop residues that are the perfect fertilizer. They already have the exact nutritional balance needed by those plants. This solid, organic matter is transformed into liquid by microorganisms in nature. To emulate that, we want microorganisms to decompose organic matter to create nutrients for our plants.
Modern farming is different than nature in a critical way— its nutrient loop is open. Farmers harvest the entire crop and remove all crop residue, they return nothing to the soil. What they have taken, they need to fill back in. But they bring in all kinds of organic matter or other products that are completely different to the nutrients that were taken out, which does not bring back the same nutritional balance to the soil. The answer is to keep filling the soil with things that have the same or similar nutritional content as the crops. This brings balance which can help lead to superb soil health.
Your base fertilizer should be either crop residue left on the ground where it was grown, cover crops, compost/manures, or tree leaves & woodchips. Trees especially prefer fungal dominance and using more “brown” matter is better for this. Fall leaves are especially good to leave on the ground around the trees. JLF is your secondary fertilizer. Crop residue (fruits, leaves, branches, roots, etc.) JLF is the best because it has exactly what that plant needs.
Make it a rule to give nutrients to the roots just as nature does. Use foliar application only as a secondary method.
A controlled single strain or wild diversity?
JADAM believes that the power of microorganisms lies in their diversity and indigenousness. This isn’t about buying specific strains of an organism adapted to growing in a lab, as if only a few microbe strains are needed. This is about having balance with what thrives in our own areas, including the millions of microbes to keep everything in check.
Over 99 percent of soil microorganisms are unknown to us. We can say that because less than 1 percent of microorganisms can be cultured by science. This means that whatever is sold on the market can at best represent one percent of the total species of microorganisms. So even though a company can say they have a product with “good” bacteria or beneficial strains of mycorrhizae, it only represents a fraction of the total diversity found in nature. We also know very little of the relationship between these different types of microorganisms and how they interact.
“What the professionals claim as “good” microorganisms are in fact less than 1/10,000 of the total existing species of microorganisms. Does it make sense that an iota of all existing and mingling microorganisms is selected and is sold as a panacea for the improvement of your whole field? Is that scientific? How much do the experts understand of the role played by the remaining 9,999/10,000 other species?”
— JADAM Organic Farming, Youngsang Cho
This is why we start with leaf mold soil as our inoculant. In 1 gram of leaf mold soil, there are approximately 2 billion to 10 billion microorganisms. There are over one million different species. It is superior to any product on the market. It contains all of the microorganisms in balance, including all the protozoa, mold, algae, yeasts, and bacteria. Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing which is why we want this diverse inoculant as opposed to a few selective strains of something in a bottle. Microorganisms mean nutrients and balanced microorganisms mean balanced nutrition.
Anaerobic fermentation — yay or nay?
Some of the JADAM inputs are made through anaerobic fermentation, including JLF. However anaerobic fermentation often gets a bad rap in the organic farming world. People tend to divide things into good or bad, especially when it comes to microbes. But really, microbes are just microbes. They all have a necessary function that supports life on this earth.
For example, bacillus anthracis, which is attributed to canker, is not always “bad”. Having them in certain numbers keeps other microbes in check; a toxin produced by them also inhibits cancer growth. E. coli is not always “bad” either. They digest fibers in the large intestine, help us to absorb nutrients and water, and help to provide necessary vitamins to our bodies. Without them, we would not have proper digestion.
The same is true with anaerobic fermentation compared to aerobic fermentation. Often people associate anaerobic with “bad” microbes. However anaerobic fermentation is a significant part of many living things. Our entire digestive system is anaerobic. Sauerkraut, kimchi, pickles, alcohol, and yogurt are all made anaerobically.
When we look at leaves falling on the ground to feed the soil, the top layer is exposed to air, but the underneath part where all of the breaking down is taking place is not exposed to air; anaerobic processes break it down. Photosynthetic bacteria, lactobacillus, and yeast are considered beneficial microbes yet they are all anaerobic. Anaerobic processes are an important part of life so they definitely are not “bad”.
Sunlight, air, and heat can destroy amino acids and nutrients through oxidation. Yet these are things aerobic fermentation uses. Increasing aeration while brewing our plant inputs can have the same negative effect on nutrients and microbes, which is technically the opposite of what we want. We want to keep those nutrients intact as much as possible and eliminating heat, air, and light helps with that.
There is definitely a time and place for aerated compost teas, but anaerobic fermentations have their place as well and provide essential nutrients to plants. Remember the goal is to mimic what nature does well, and nature uses anaerobic processes to feed plant roots, so we do too.
Ambient temperatures
JLF is fermented in a closed container as near to your growing area as possible to keep it in the ambient temperature of the crops.
To cultivate microbes that benefit our crops, we cultivate them in the same environment our crops are growing in. This means at the same temperature, in the same air, in the same location to the extent possible. By doing this, we have a crop-tailored fertilizer. The microorganisms will be able to live in those conditions and then can give the nutrients to our trees.
Microorganisms are very temperature-sensitive. If we brew our fermentations in a temperature-controlled environment, they will cultivate the microbes that can live in that specific temperature. Once we take them outside into a different temperature and environment, they can die, which defeats some of the purpose. So we make our fermentations in the same environment our plants are growing in to have microbes that can continue to benefit our plants.
JADAM principles
Water and leaf mold (instead of sugar and molasses)
Anaerobic (instead of aerobic)
Ambient temperature (instead of using heaters)
How to make JADAM Liquid Fertilizer (JLF)
It’s as simple as this:
Fill the container with the ingredient; add a handful of leaf mold soil; fill up with water; and close the lid — done.
Materials needed
▸ Crop residues, mowed wild grass or weeds
▸ A bucket, trash can, or barrel with a lid
▸ Leaf mold soil. (Wild sources from nearby old-growth forests with deciduous trees are best.)
▸ Non-chlorinated water. Rainwater is ideal. Tap water can be used, just be sure to let it sit without a lid outside for 24 hours to remove as much of the chlorine as possible before using.
🍁 Fall time JLF using fig crop residue
The type of fertilizer that is best for figs is figs (or, insert whatever plant you are planning to fertilize.) The fig plants and fruits already contain the nutrients figs need to grow. Nature uses crop residues to feed plants and so do we for JLF.
In the autumn as the leaves are getting ready to fall, we collect these into a bucket. We do the same with any leftover fruits that will not ripen properly for us to eat. (The fruit quality does not matter for this.) Cover this with non-chlorinated water, add a generous handful or two of leaf mold soil, stir up, and let sit covered until the next season starts.
🌾 Springtime JLF using wild grasses and weeds
Wild grasses and weeds are fast-growing plants and are hardy to the local environment with temperature adaptability and insect resistance. Plants like these are loaded with natural nitrogen and the hormones needed for plant growth.
Mow a field with some wild, native grass and weeds. Mow your own untreated lawn. Or, get some grass clippings from a neighbor, local gardener, or friend. Collect the clippings, add in a handful or two of leaf mold soil, cover them with unchlorinated water, and stir together with a stick. Cover with a lid and let sit.
Fermentation method and times
The average time to figure is 3 months, but this is variable by what is being fermented.
The minimum fermentation time for fresh plant material is usually about 10-14 days until you can start using it, though about 3 months will get you a more nutritiously complete batch, and you can use JLF at any point in between. The longer a fermentation sits, the more nutrition it will contain. So aged batches of JLF are perfectly fine and desirable. It is usually recommended to prepare a batch in spring for the following year. However, you can totally use a batch in the same year if just getting started. Just know that the less time it has fermented, the less nutrition it will contain as the materials have not fully broken down.
Temperature and ingredient size affect length of time…
JLF fermentation times are affected by the temperature. Things break down and ferment quickly in the heat of summer, this slows down in cooler weather. In summer, it may take one week to process a batch of JLF. It could take several weeks in cooler weather.
The smaller the particle of the organic material, the faster it will break down. Larger particles will take longer to break down. If you want a batch quickly, run your lawn mower over the material to cut it into smaller pieces.
How to know when it is ready…
Looking at how much of the material has broken down and “dissolved” gives you an idea of how ready it is to use. The more broken down the material, the stronger the liquid is with nutrition. Remove the lid and if you see the material has broken down and the liquid is quite dark, it is ready to use.
Do not remove the solids from your container or clean it. Let them continue to break down and add water as needed. You can keep adding material and top off with water throughout the season. I often add weeds I pull as I am working in my yard to my grass/weed JLF. This helps to keep a continuous supply going and one container can last many years.
Dilution rates
Average dilution can be anywhere from 20 to 300. Newer JLF can be diluted at 30:1 (parts of water to JLF.) Aged JLF can be diluted at 100:1.
Dilution rates are also determined by root area and soil quality. A plant with a large, extensive root system will absorb more nutrients than a plant with a much smaller root system. So only a little JLF is needed and a higher dilution can be used with these plants because they will collect it from the entire root area.
For plants in greenhouses and pots, apply with a generous amount of water to fully wet the soil.
Give your JLF a stir with a stick, let it settle a moment. Use a pitcher, cup, or other container to collect some JLF from the top. Strain the fluid through a fine sieve or cloth so that any residue does not clog your watering system. Dilute with non-chlorinated water at your desired dilution rate and water your plants with the solution.
»» It is always best to start at a higher dilution to see how the plants react first and then adjust accordingly. So start at a dilution of say 100:1, (which is 2 Tbs per gallon of water,) and then increase or lower it depending on the plants’ reaction.
Frequency of application
This type of fertilizing is really more intuitive, but if you need a schedule, think of applying it 2-4 times a month. I put mine in my fertigation unit at a higher dilution, so my trees get a little bit with every watering and I refill as needed.
Additional notes and JLF variations
☀︎ It is perfectly fine to see molds and other things growing on the surface of your JLF, this is part of the process.
☼ If the materials float, go ahead and stir them back under periodically. Alternatively, if they all sink to the bottom, stir them back up so they have full liquid contact. Check every 7-10 days throughout the growing season or as needed.
☀︎ It will stink. Like anything that is anaerobically fermented, it has an odor. It usually is not noticeable with the lid on. But you will notice it whenever you are working with it, so just know that the scent is normal. It usually dissipates quite quickly after watering with it, so it should not disturb the neighbors or anything. If the smell is too much, you can add a little hardwood charcoal, biochar, or rock dust to your JLF. Older JLFs do not have much odor.
☼ Crop residue & fruits, and wild grasses can be made into one fertilizer in the same container or you can make them separately. This type of JLF can be applied throughout the season and is for balanced growth.
☀︎ JLF can also be made with food waste, fresh manures*, urine, etc. This type of JLF is higher in nitrogen and may take longer to break down, so it is better to ferment these separately in their own bucket to use as needed instead of continuously. They also have a tendency to smell more. These fermentations can take 6 months or longer and they are used early to mid season to promote growth.
* Be careful of herbicide & antibiotic residues that are commonly found in manures. These can affect the success of your fermentation & can limit microbial diversity.
☼ A fish JLF 🐟 can be made and is an affordable replacement for purchased fish emulsions. Simply go fishing and half fill a bucket. Alternatively, fish markets and restaurants often have raw fish parts and waste they are happy to get rid of for free or at a low cost. Just make sure they have not treated it first.
This type of JLF using raw fish takes about 3 months or more. The more fish used, the longer it takes to break down. Smaller fish decompose faster. Make sure to use plenty of water. The water will become too thick if there is too much fish which will slow down the fermentation process. So only fill your container about halfway with fish and fill to the top with water. Add more water and leaf mold soil if an oil layer develops on top.
Again this should be fermented separately from your other JLFs. When using in the early stages of growth on baby plants, dilute 1,000 times. Dilution on established plants can range from 50 to 500 times. This is high in nitrogen and is used early to mid season to promote growth.
☀︎ Seaweed and kelp can also be used to make JLF. Fermentation is over 3 months.
☼ Calcium and phosphate rich JLFs can be made with animal bones 🦴, eggshells 🥚, fish bones, or seafood shells, such as shrimp or crab 🦀🦞🦐. Shrimp or crab also contain chitosan. These take over 3 months to ferment and are applied mid to late in the growth cycle as they slow down growth and cause the plant to focus on reproduction. Dilute 50 to 500 times.
→ Add leaf mold soil as an inoculant to all JLF variations mentioned above.←
So much information, so little time…
Explaining the principles and options takes more time than it does to make it. But give a man a fish or teach a man to fish and all that, yadda yadda… 🤓 Hopefully, this JLF primer helps with your grows. Fertilizing shouldn’t require degrees to understand it, it shouldn’t be backbreaking work, and neither should it empty your wallet.
Nature does not grow a single plant on this entire earth using science or fertilizer schedules. These things are directly tied to the sales and marketing of chemical fertilizers. So do as nature does. It is free, it is simple and it works. I challenge you to make use of it. 😏
Most of this article was based on the JADAM Organic Farming book. Please check out the JADAM website and books for more information:
There are also a ton of YouTube videos if you are a video person. Plenty to binge watch if this topic interests you.
»» Do any of you use JADAM? Let me know in the comments, we must bond! 😀
I finally got around to making my first brew bucket. I reread this article as a refresher. Thanks again for the inspiration!
I have been learning about KNF and Jadam. I am in the process of setting up my micro fruit orchard, but I plan to brew my own inputs in the future.