Apparently, this is the season for amino acids! Last year, it was calcium; and right now, it is all about the amino acids and how they benefit our plants! I wrote a lot about the benefits of amino acids in the Egg Amino Acid article. To recap, amino acids give these benefits:

• Increases photosynthesis activity

• Increases enzymatic activity

• Helps with hormone production

• Reduces disease and insect pressure

• Increases fruit & blossom yield

• Increases terpenes, secondary metabolites, and flavonoids

• More root growth

• Helps increase uptake of other nutrients, such as calcium

• Improves soil quality

• Can be a nitrogen source

That’s a lot of benefit! So are you using them yet?? I bet you are because you’re here! 😉

We already know we can obtain a large amount of amino acids from fish, ruminant meat, and eggs. They are also in the whey from lactic acid bacterial serum (LABS) if you happen to make that for your garden. Can we make it from anything else? Yes, beans! In actuality, many of the commercial amino acid products are derived from soybeans, so this isn’t anything new per se. However, it is nice to make it yourself so that you know exactly what is in it. Plus, this way it is alive from the fermentation, it’s full of enzymes and beneficial bacteria that are just not in the dried, dead commercial powders. This is a live amino acid food for the soil and for the plants.

Bean amino acids also come in handy if you happen to be vegan or prefer not to use animal products in your growing. Beans usually are cheap to come by, last for many years, and are readily available so they have advantages for anyone with access to them.

Okay then, what beans to use for Bean Amino Acids (BAA)? This can be made with any fresh or dried bean, legume, pulse, or grain. (Yes, I know some of these are technically not beans. But the same process can be used with each of them for a similar purpose, hence, I am lumping them together here.) Each one has its own nutrient profile and will provide benefits in some capacity. However, being that we’re talking amino acids here, soybeans have the highest amount of protein and so are a good choice. This is followed in order of protein quantity by lentils, kidney beans, navy beans, black beans, pinto beans, and chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans,) to list the most commonly available beans. I do highly recommend organic products for this as both beans and grains are often contaminated with glyphosate because it is used as a dessicant for harvesting. And if it’s not glyphosate, it’s often a different herbicide used for the same purpose. That residue does not wash off, it is inside of the bean or grain and may affect how well this ferments since they are often classified as antibiotics. As such, please use organic for the best results.

So let's talk nutrient values. I don’t have lab results at this time for what is in BAA. I’m still fermenting my first batch truth be told. However, this is the nutritional value of one cup of raw soybean seeds:

• 67.87 grams of protein

• 515.22 mg of calcium

• 29.20 mg of iron

• 3342 mg of potassium

• 3.08 mg of copper

• 520.80 mg of magnesium

• 4.682 mg of manganese

• 1309.44 mg of phosphorus

• 33.11 mcg of selenium

• 9.10 mg of zinc

This is the amino acid breakdown:

• Alanine (4.41%)

• Arginine (7.30%)

• Aspartic acid (11.88%)

• Cystine (1.53%)

• Glutamic acid (18.34%)

• Glycine (4.41%)

• Histidine (2.55%)

• Isoleucine (4.58%)

• Leucine (7.72%)

• Lysine (6.28%)

• Methionine (1.27%)

• Phenylalanine (4.92%)

• Proline (5.52%)

• Serine (5.52%)

• Threonine (4.07%)

• Tryptophan (1.36%)

• Tyrosine (3.57%)

• Valine (4.75%)

There is a lot of potential there with plenty of good things! What do we know about some of these amino acids?

Amino acids like glycine and glutamic acid help plants absorb nutrients by forming chelates, which protect minerals from reacting with other substances in the soil, making them more available for uptake. These amino acids also stimulate root cells to open up ion channels, allowing plants to absorb calcium and other essential nutrients more efficiently.

Glycine- Acts as a chelating agent, enhancing mineral uptake. Supports the synthesis of proteins and enzymes.

Glutamic Acid- Stimulates root growth and enhances nutrient absorption. Involved in the synthesis of plant hormones.

Proline- Helps plants cope with stress by maintaining osmotic balance. Protects against oxidative damage during adverse conditions.

Arginine- Promotes flowering and fruit set by influencing hormonal balance. Enhances plant resistance to diseases.

Aspartic Acid- Supports the synthesis of proteins and enzymes essential for growth. Aids in nitrogen metabolism, improving overall plant health.

(Here is one paper breaking down more of the benefits and effects of individual amino acids on plants in case you would like to read more.)

I see all of those beneficial amino acids in soybeans and I’m really curious how the trees will respond to BAA. Of course, nutrients will vary depending on the type of bean used and whether it was processed in any way first, such as with split beans or flours.

Beans and “Antinutrients”

I wanted to address this before anyone asks, antinutrients have become a keyword amongst some groups of people for human nutrition. It is a complicated subject that I definitely have a personal opinion on, but I won’t get into it here as this site is about fig growing and not human nutrition or diets. Figs are fun, arguing about human diets is not! Suffice it to say, antinutrients are not a concern for this purpose as there are multiple studies showing fermentation greatly reduces them while improving nutrient availability. (Here is one such study showing a 96-99% reduction.) If it is a subject that concerns you, I highly recommend searching antinutrients and fermentation on Google Scholar which will bring up studies and papers related to that subject. I’m certain that will help to put your mind at ease so you can proceed without worry!

How to make Bean Amino Acids?

This is technically a new process to me just like the Egg Amino Acids, so we will learn together! There are several versions of this on YouTube, but they all basically boil down to soaking your beans for at least two days until soft enough to squeeze slightly, blending them up with the soaking water into a paste, pouring that into a bucket with additional water, and adding dark jaggery. Cover and let sit in a shady area for anywhere between 10-21 days, the shorter time for when in summer heat and the longer time when in cooler weather. Strain out the liquid after the fermentation time is complete and use it diluted in your garden. The solids can be mixed into garden beds or compost. Some versions also use bean flours as an alternative to whole dried beans, (the soaking and blending step can be skipped if using flour, though you may need to add additional water.)

It does not seem to require an inoculant and will be fine without one. However, a little EM-1 or a spoonful of another lactic acid ferment can be added if desired to give a boost to the fermentation.

STEP 1

Take 2 lbs. of dried beans, cover with water, and soak for 2 days or until softened enough to squeeze a bit.

STEP 2

Blend the soaked beans with the soaking liquid until a milky paste forms. (You may need to do this in batches depending on how much your blending container holds.) It doesn’t have to be perfectly smooth, but broken down enough that the amino acids can be extracted.

STEP 3

Add the bean paste into a bucket (or other container to ferment in) along with 1 lb. of unrefined cane sugar, (such as plain jaggery, dark brown sugar, panela, muscovado, sucanat, or blackstrap molasses,) and 1 gallon of good water.

Mix everything together well.

STEP 4

Cover the bucket with a lid and stick it in a shady spot to ferment for up to 21 days. Stir each day to get anything that has settled on the bottom back into the mix.

It ferments faster in warmer weather and slower in cool weather. The average is between 10-21 days and it should smell fermented when done. It may also change in color, especially if light colored beans were used. It sometimes turns a wine color, perhaps from the sugar.

STEP 5

After a minimum of 10 days, strain out the solids and save the liquid in a closed container to fertilize with. The solids can be mixed into garden beds or added to compost if desired.

DILUTION RATES

Dilute the reserved bean liquid (BAA) at 3-4ml to 1 liter of water, or 3/4 teaspoon to 1 quart of water. This can be used in foliar sprays or soil drenches.

This is a very forgiving product and the dilution can be adjusted to suit your needs. As with all things, apply a low amount at first and see how your plants react. Raise or lower the dilution according to what you observe.

Easy enough to make, right? It seems to be worth a try! So, I’ll give it a go and will update what I think of it later on! After all, the musicality of these fruits are the songs my tastebuds will sing from eating good figs since, thank goodness, fig trees don’t toot from oligosaccharides unlike humans! Can we talk beans without a fart joke? It was going so well… 🤪

This article is to give another option to those looking to move away from commercial, chemical inputs or to save on costs. It’s also for those just wanting to give a little boost to their gardens. Self-sufficiency is what it’s all about and I hope it helps!

Nothing to see here! Just trying out a new feature as a small bonus for paid subscribers:

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So, why amino acids? I mean, anyone can just run down to their local growing supply store, grab a bottle of NPK something or other, apply it like it says to and they’re fine, right? Why bother with this? Those are excellent questions my dear reader and I’m glad you asked!

Amino acids have a plethora of benefits to knock your NPK socks off! Did you know amino acids quicken protein synthesis and enzyme formation, supporting root and flower production and overall biomass growth? What many may not know is that plants immediately absorb amino acids as a nitrogen source that has already been broken down for use. Amino acids have relationships with several pathways in plants which have effects on plant physiology and growth, including hormones, enzymes, nutrient storage & transport, and giving structure to cells. Some of these have been well documented and if you do a search on Google Scholar, it will generate pages and pages of internet links to papers on the topic. (So many, in fact, that I chose not to follow my original plan to cite them here. So please feel free to click the link above to check them out if you like.)

One paper stated: “Compared to routine fertilizers or other commercially synthetic chelators such as EDTA; however, aminochelates represent a safer and more efficient form of fertilizer, resulting in better plant performance and less environmental risks…they have a superior effect on plant growth and productivity compared to simple chemical salt fertilizers.”

Superior effects compared to chemical salt fertilizers? Well, that’s a good start, right? That article was written a decade ago and there have since been many more papers proving the benefits of using amino acids. What are some of these benefits?

The Power of Amino Acids for Plant Health

Incorporating amino acids into one’s plant care regimen acts as a powerful catalyst for growth and vitality. Unlike standard chemical fertilizers, which can sometimes hinder natural processes, amino acids work in harmony with plants’ biology to optimize performance.

Here is how amino acids transforms crops:

• Superior Nutrient Absorption Acting as natural chelating agents, amino acids bind to essential nutrients—such as nitrogen, calcium, iron, zinc, and magnesium—making them significantly easier for roots to absorb and utilize compared to standard chemical additives.

• Built-in Stress Shield They provide plants with the resilience to withstand environmental pressures. Whether it is drought, frost, extreme temperatures, or transplant shock, amino acids help plants recover quickly and maintain their health during adverse conditions.

• Enhanced Plant Defenses Amino acids bolster plants’ natural security system. By promoting the synthesis of secondary metabolites (like alkaloids and esters) and strengthening cell walls with lignin and pectin, they help plants protect themselves against insect damage and disease.

• Metabolic Efficiency By serving as the fundamental building blocks of proteins, amino acids reduce the energy burden on the plant. This allows the plant to conserve energy and redirect it toward faster growth, better hormone activation, and improved enzymatic reactions.

• Boosted Yields and Quality Regular use is linked to higher yields. They actively stimulate flowering and fruit set, helping to get more produce. Furthermore, by increasing terpene production, they enhance the flavor and aroma of fruits and flowers.

• Thriving Soil Ecosystem Amino acids act as a high-quality food source for beneficial soil microbes. This stimulation improves overall soil health, which in turn creates a more robust foundation for long-term plant vigor.

Why Choose Amino Acids Over Chemical Fertilizers?

While chemical fertilizers are often used to force growth, they can inadvertently create issues such as nutrient blocking, increased insect pressure, and environmental stress.

In contrast, amino acids offer a holistic approach:

• They don’t block nutrients: Instead of creating chemical imbalances, they facilitate the bioavailability of minerals.

• They provide sustainable support: By strengthening the plant’s internal structure and signaling systems, they encourage healthy development rather than just temporary stimulation.

• They optimize the whole plant: From root growth to fruit quality, amino acids support the entire lifecycle, ensuring plants are not just growing, but thriving.

Suffice it to say, that bottle of NPK isn’t doing what amino acids can do for your plants or soil health. Even if you have a great feeding program, nutrients can be "wasted" if the plant's metabolism is too slow to process them. Amino acids support the enzyme systems responsible for nutrient transport and assimilation, ensuring plants turn those inputs into actual growth.

Amino Acids: Your Plants’ Metabolic Advantage

Think of amino acids, not as a direct replacement for your standard fertilizer, but as a high-efficiency toolkit. While sugars provide energy and nitrogen provides fuel, amino acids serve as the pre-built components that help your plant function at its peak, especially when conditions aren’t perfect.

Standard fertilizers (nitrates, ammonium) are like “raw fuel.” They are essential, but the plant must spend energy to convert them into usable forms. Amino acids are the “usable forms” plants need to function, rather than the raw materials they need to transform. Plants are capable of synthesizing their own amino acids, but the process is energy-intensive. It requires certain amounts of light, nitrogen, and metabolic power. When a plant is young or under environmental stress—such as from cold, heat, overwatering, or nutrient imbalance—it may struggle to produce these compounds quickly enough to keep up. Chemical nitrogen gives a quick fuel push but amino acids provide functional building blocks that can be used for diverse purposes beyond just nitrogen intake. Amino acids are generally more bioavailable and produce quicker results. They save the plant the energy cost of internal manufacturing. The plant can then redirect that saved energy into growth, recovery, and development. Since they increase the uptake of nutrients, they can help to reduce the amount of fertilizer needed, saving on costs as well.

Amino Acids: Specialized Support for Roots, Flowers, and Growth

While amino acids serve as broad metabolic support, they play particularly critical roles during the most energy-intensive stages of a plant’s life—specifically root development and the transition to flowering and fruiting.

Where They Excel: Targeted Growth

Amino acids are not “one size fits all”; they facilitate specific biological processes when a plant is under pressure:

• Root Development: Roots are protein-rich, fast-growing tissues. By supplementing with amino acids, you help the plant sustain root tips even during stress. Look for: More white, active root growth and more consistent leaf posture (turgor) throughout the day.

• Flowering and Fruiting: Shifting from leafy growth to reproductive growth is energy-demanding. Amino acids provide the internal support needed to move nutrients (like phosphorus and potassium) efficiently. Look for: Tighter flower sites, improved fruit fill, and fewer “stall” periods in the middle of your crop cycle.

Reality Check: What Amino Acids Are Not

It is important to understand that amino acids alone are a supplement, not a total solution. While amino acids are excellent for metabolic support, they are not a "cure-all." Using them in excess can lead to specific and misunderstood problems.

If you suspect you are overusing amino acids, look for these symptoms:

Context is everything, amino acids work best when the plant's foundation (roots, water, light, oxygen) is already solid. They are a tool to maximize efficiency, not a remedy for fundamental growing errors. Amino acids stimulate metabolism, so if there is too much of a nutrient or too little, that can show up when excessive amounts are applied.

Late-stage overuse during fruit growth is a common pitfall. If you push too many amino acids—especially those high in nitrogen—you risk keeping the plant stuck in vegetative growth mode, which disrupts the natural ripening process. Keep applications moderate to low during this stage. If your plants stay unnaturally dark green or fail to mature on schedule, you may be over-supplying nitrogen or amino acids. This can lead to delayed ripening and distorted nutrient ratios.

I had to list some of the warnings with them since over-application can be a thing. But really, it is hard to do that if you are applying in moderation. Balance is everything!

All of this said, the question now is are you using amino acids in your gardens and orchards?

Where do we get these amino acids?

Anyone who’s read something I’ve written probably knows I love fish amino acids (FAA). I have written about them here and they are my go-to. I cannot say enough good things about this product and it will always be in my arsenal. This is not a pure amino acid supplement, but contains other nutrients as well, making it more of a complete growing solution. Supposedly, this method can also be used with ruminant meat instead of fish as another type of amino acid input, though I have not tried it yet myself.

There are also amino acid products available at specialty growing stores, hydroponics shops, and online. Fish hydrolysate is a commercial product that can be found in many garden centers. Others use soy proteins or other vegetable-based proteins, both in dry and liquid formats. There are also amino acid complexed minerals, such as those with calcium or boron. So there are products to choose from if you prefer to purchase. Just note that there is a difference between a pure amino acid derivative product and something more comprehensive like a whole ingredient product, such as fish hydrolysate. These would be used in different ways and sometimes require other nutrients to be complete.

But wait! Now there are egg amino acids (EAA)! Did you know that you can easily break eggs down into free amino acids? This is becoming even more important with the rising costs of everything. So, how do we make this?

Basically, you take whole fresh eggs, put them in a jar, add lemon juice just to cover the eggs, close the lid, and let sit for 15 days. After this, crack the eggs in the jar open with a fork while still in the lemon juice, add in a certain amount of jaggery or brown sugar, mix it all together, cover it again with a lid, and let it sit for another 10 days. Then strain it, keep the liquid, and use it diluted in foliar sprays or soil drenches.

Reportedly, this product shines when approaching and during early flowering stages. It not only has the amino acids from the egg white and yolk, but it also has the minerals from the shell, which include calcium, phosphorus, sulfur, magnesium, and trace elements like copper, iron, and zinc. The citric acid from the lemon juice makes these minerals easy to absorb. Win-win!

This is the basic recipe:

Egg Amino Acids

• 4 fresh whole eggs

• 8 lemons (approximate amount, you will need enough juice to cover the eggs.)

• 200 grams of jaggery or brown sugar

Add the whole eggs to a jar. Juice the lemons and add the juice to the jar to cover the eggs. Close the jar with a lid and let sit for 15 days. *This likely will produce bubbles as the lemon juice softens the eggshell. Be sure to burp your jar every day as needed so that the gases do not build pressure which may cause the jar to explode.

After the 15 days, crack the eggs open inside of the jar and mix them into the lemon juice. Add in the jaggery and mix well. Cover the jar with the lid and let sit for 10 days.

After the 10 days, strain the mixture and save the liquid in a closed container. Dilute the EAA 2-3ml per liter of water or 1/2 teaspoon per 1 quart of water. Use as a foliar spray or soil drench.

Are you going to try it?? I am! I have some brewing right now as I type this up. Granted, I only had a few pathetic-looking lemons hanging around and so supplemented with some bottled lemon juice which I am not sure is allowed. We’ll see what happens!

UPDATE 04/27/2026

DAY 3 EAA

You can see there is a lot of sediment at the bottom of the jar from the eggshells dissolving. The same with the brown stuff at the top which is from the brown eggshells. I give the jar a little swirl each day to keep things mobile and in contact with the liquid.

Mostly, this was an excuse and an inspiration to talk about amino acids with you though. Although, I have to admit, I got tired of saying “amino acids this” and “amino acids that”, too many amino acids! It felt like a school essay on the topic! Someone posted not too long ago on one of the fig forums asking why anyone would want to use fish fertilizer when you could just get a bottle of Miracle-Gro — well, now you know! So go “amino acid” their butts with all of this knowledge, after all sharing is caring! 😜

I have to give a shout out to igrosoil on Instagram, it was his post that sparked this article and I can’t wait to see his lab results for EAA!

There is a lot of talk currently about rising fertilizer costs, not to mention the environmental impacts of chemical fertilizers, so I hope this article comes in handy as a convenient, affordable, and self-sufficient solution to any potential supply issues! Thank goodness nature always has a way and is an excellent nutrient source for plants. As always, I appreciate you all for being here! Does anyone have figs forming yet? I have some breba growing at the moment…

Guys! It’s been a while! What a crazy winter it has been, work at the day job really got busy and kept me from a lot of things. I’m so glad to be back though! Here is the long-overdue update to our Winter Experiments series! Were you waiting on bated breath?? Well, maybe not really, but still, here is an update for those interested.

To recap: Experiment #1 was the dried seaweed ferment, and Experiment #2 was with the paramagnetic rooting substrate. Experiment #3 was the particles rooting substrates. Experiment #4 was all about natural growth stimulants. Last but not least was Experiment #5, the 50/50.

Experiment 1: Dried Seaweed Ferment

After about 4 days, I noticed it had some mold growing on the surface. It’s not unusual to get some mold on a ferment, especially when the materials are not remaining submerged below the liquid. This can happen when making FAA too and the answer is usually either more sugar or ignore. I chose to not worry about it because I knew that the EM-1 bacteria would eventually take over.

Here it is 2 weeks in:

What you are seeing above is not all mold! It is the EM-1 pellicle, (some call it a scoby, it is such if it contains yeast and becomes more of a solid gelatinous mass,) with some patches of mold, mostly around the sides and on the side of the bucket where I splashed up mixing it and didn’t wipe it clean afterwards. The green-gray spots are mold.

I did add in about 8 cups more water with a dollop of blackstrap molasses added because it was gel-like under the scoby and I wanted it more liquidy.

Here it is exactly 1 month later:

You can still see the EM-1 pellicle. The majority of the mold is gone. The darker spots are where the pellicle is more transparent and the color of the liquid underneath is showing through. The picture doesn’t show the differences very well. But in the first picture with mold, there were greenish, fuzzy spots. This one does not have that anymore. It smells a little yeasty, a little fermenty — it smells ready to use.

I ended up loving this ferment! I was so shocked as I wasn’t expecting much from it. But it has performed so well, it is a great one and I don’t think I will be buying seaweed fertilizer ever again. This was so easy to make! I decided not to decant it, but to take from it as needed and to keep adding in bits of molasses to keep it LAB based so it doesn’t turn to alcohol or vinegar. I’m not sure how long that will last or if it is ideal, but I want to extract everything I can from the seaweed.

Because I loved it so much, it led to… ↓↓↓

Dried Seaweed Ferment #2

I did decide to make another ferment with the dried whole pieces of seaweed (2 lbs dried). I had dried rockweed and sea lettuce that I covered with water and let rehydrate for 24 hours. This stuff was incredible— it smelled briny and fresh from the ocean. I did pour off the soaking water in this case, it smelled just like ocean water, but was kind of cloudy and dirty looking. I originally intended to chop up the seaweed into 1-inch pieces. But the rockweed was tougher than expected, so I just roughly chopped it. I could have pulled out my food processor, but I really did not want to go to that much effort with the larger amount I had, especially since it can be hard to control particle size with it. I have also heard that in cases where you are getting fresh seaweed from the beach, you can chop it up by laying it on a lawn and running a lawn mower over it. I do not have a lawn though, so that option was out. So big pieces it is!

In this fermentation, I decided to add in some fresh aloe vera to bring in live enzymes and native microbes. So I layered the seaweed with some chopped up aloe blades I took from a plant in my garden.

I then covered it with well water and added in an amount of blackstrap molasses that was 35% of the total weight. The amount was arbitrary based on a gallon bottle I had lying around that I wanted to use up. (The original recipe was 17.5% of the weight of the seaweed.) I also added in a hefty splash of EM-1.

I was having problems with the aloe pieces wanting to float on the surface. I knew this could cause a mold issue. So I took whole aloe blades and sliced them in half vertically. I laid the whole halves, cut side down, on top of the material in the bucket to form a solid barrier and put a stone on top of them that almost filled the width of the bucket. This was to keep everything submerged below the top of the liquid to prevent mold. (If you are familiar with making sauerkraut, they often do a similar thing with whole cabbage leaves and a weight for a similar reason.)

Here it is after 1 week:

We have the EM-1 pellicle, but zero mold this time. Because I used large, whole pieces of seaweed, I am planning to ferment this one a longer time, probably 3 months.

A similar type of ferment is called Fermented Plant Extract (FPE). It typically ferments for about 2-4 weeks, and when making it, you know it is ready when the pH is between 3.5 to 3.7. These were not done exactly FPE style, but it is a good reference point for checking the pH of LAB and water-based ferments. This one has a lot more food than an FPE, so I feel it can go longer than the usual timeframe.

It really is hard for a ferment like this to go “bad”. Even if it does seem to, it still can be usable in the outdoor garden at high dilutions. This is because it is the nature of soil and plant environments to break down matter and use it as food. So you aren't ever really introducing anything that doesn't already exist in a natural growing environment. It is just that care should be taken when using it on your more precious cultivated plants that the pH is not too low, such as below 3.4, or if using it indoors when there are foul odors for personal comfort. If the pH is low, use a higher dilution. The water will raise up the pH to an acceptable level, especially if the water is hard.

Experiment 2: High Paramagnetic Rooting Medium

I was worried about this one, especially with the 100% basalt dust since it seemed extremely heavy and mucky. I did add water to these weekly since they seemed quick to dry out.

Within a week or two, we started having signs of top growth with swelling buds. After two full weeks, I did have stems pushing up through the medium on two.

It did take 5 weeks for roots to show and these roots were gorgeous! The biochar ones were the first to root and they did the best overall, so much so that I think I will add biochar to all of my rooting mediums from here on out. These were the greenest and healthiest-looking plants out of all of the experiments.

We had one loss, which I predicted from the 100% basalt cup. I knew it was too dense as I was potting it and have some regret for not adjusting the experiment immediately. I found high levels of basalt were not ideal and it’s best to keep it to a minor amount since the one I have is so fine. A chunkier basalt would have been more ideal for this type of experiment.

This experiment did so well that I added 9 more cuttings with a different mix of equal parts biochar, basalt, pumice, coco coir, and perlite. All of these rooted, but I still feel the basalt was too high, so next year I will adjust. That biochar though is fantastic!

Experiment 3: Rooting In Particles

I feel the need to be very honest, I really dislike rooting in a high particle medium. 😅They are really hard for me to regulate the moisture with it being so dry here, and we had humidity issues. That said, all rooted and all are still alive. I just will not be choosing this again because it is so high-maintenance for me and the results did not surpass other methods.

The calcined clay one was the first to root at 5.5 weeks., followed by the diatomaceous earth, then the Akadama after 6 weeks, and last was the zeolite after 7 weeks.

Even though the calcined clay one rooted first and does have a decent root system, I think that the diatomaceous earth one has the best root system overall. It did take these guys a longer time to get the roots going well though. These also aren’t the healthiest plants out of all of the experiments, there are definite deficiency issues. I think because of the nature of the particles, they are not the best at holding in nutrients and so need constant nutrition. The source of the cuttings also has a huge bearing on this as well. This particular source has often had cuttings with nutrient issues in my experience with them over the years and so that may also have had an effect on the results.

Experiment 4: Natural Growth Regulators

I’m going to be straight with you, this one bombed in my opinion and is probably deserving of a redo. I blame the small number used in the experiment and that they were all from one source. I’m not sure if something happened to this batch of cuttings, they did collect a lot of heat at one point, but all of them took a long time to root. None from the coconut water batch rooted, one from the all aloe did not root, and one from the coconut water + aloe did not root. All others eventually rooted. The seaweed ones all rooted after 4 weeks and were the first to root.

Seaweed for me has been a great rooting stimulant and even though this experiment was not perfect, I think it still shows the help seaweed can give when there are issues. Seaweed will continue to be my go-to for starting cuttings and I will save the others to use later as boosts.

Experiment 5: The 50/50

This one was interesting. It really revealed to me how much of a difference the way trees are grown and the timing of cutting collection has a bearing in how well they root. A lot of the success seems to be dependent on this. I used two different sources for these cuttings, all from one rooted immediately and had green, lush growth; the others took a long time to root and had signs of deficiency immediately. This was true across the different substrates and seaweed products. The source seemed more important than the rooting medium.

In this experiment, all rooted with just one loss. Here are the stats:

First to root were soaked in the seaweed ferment from experiment 1, quickly followed by the ones soaked in Kelpak. The difference was just 2 days between them. The last to root and the poorest performing overall for growth quality, along with our only loss, were soaked in Bloom City.

The first to root of the substrates were the peat and coco coir combos with perlite, with the majority to first root being in peat. The last to root and the poorest performing by far were the ones in vermicompost and perlite. The ones in sand & perlite all had finer and thin roots. The vermiculite and perlite combos were mid across the board.

The ones soaked in and fertilized with sparkling water did great! There was some evidence of deficiency though in one of the plants, but it outperformed Bloom City by a long shot.

Overall, this experiment did well. I recommend the seaweed ferment if you have time to make it. If not, Kelpak is a great product for rooting. Powdered water-soluble seaweed products, Grow More, and Maxicrop are all midline products that do well. I did not like Bloom City at all and don’t recommend it at this time.

For rooting substrates, 50/50 peat and perlite seems to be the most desirable. This is closely followed by coco coir and perlite. The others all did great too, though I would not recommend a compost product as that did the worst for me.

Performance was evaluated by rooting speed, root quality, and plant health.

The Control

What you may not know is that I also did a control group. I followed my usual rooting routine. I soaked the cuttings for 72 hours in fig FPJ and seaweed, changing out the water each day. I rooted them in a 1:1:1 combo of peat, pumice, and vermiculite. I am pleased to say that this one performed the best overall. I had 100% rooting success. The cuttings rooted quickly starting at 2 weeks, with all rooted after 3 weeks. Roots looked great and growth was great. I played around with water to test their limits and I could not kill these, neither with overwatering nor with under-watering. That did create some issues with the plants for which I had to correct, but they all rebounded well.

After all of these experiments, I ultimately arrived at the conclusion that my original way is the best way for me. I’m just going to add in some biochar to my mix when I can. I definitely prefer treepots to clear cups and will stick to those in the future as well. They are superior for bottom watering, for protecting the roots from lights, and for keeping long-term until I am ready to up-pot.

With all said and done, I now have a ton of plants that need up-potting. Six losses and 71 successes, well, that’s not bad in my book! A 92% success rate even with the experiments and neglect from being insanely busy at work.

Hope you all had a fantastic season of rooting this winter! And I hope that this mass of information helps you in some way with future fig rooting endeavors!

This was a quick update, so let me know if you have any questions or if I missed a particular detail you would like to know about in the comments!

Winter Experiments Playlist—To close the series out:

We are in spring now and the trees are waking up! What is this season going to bring? I can’t wait to find out!

1. Control over ingredients

2. Cheaper cost

Let’s read…

Whenever you get into growing and collecting plants, it seems inevitable that at some point you also get into mixing your own potting soil. The fact is, the majority of potting mixes on the market are not made for perennial plants, let alone trees. They are made mostly for annuals for the point of lasting one growing season. Hence, the materials used in them are not very long-lasting, they start to break down and either turn into muck or slowly flush out of pot holes. This is why you’ll see your pots decreasing in soil volume after a period of time. Most fig growers need to “refresh” or “top off” their pots every couple of years or even every year because of this. In other cases, it is because of expense, it can be significantly cheaper to make your own mix. So how to do it?

Any potting mix comprised of compost, manure, composted forest products, or the like will break down rather quickly because that is what these things are meant to do. All organic matter eventually breaks down. Not to mention, ingredients such as compost use a lot of oxygen and can deprive it from plant roots. Ultimately, this can affect plant health because as it is breaking down, you are losing even more aeration, mucky material can build up around the roots, it is no longer able to hold onto nutrients or water for very long. You may see your plants having reduced fruiting or indications of root issues. You may also need to water perhaps multiple times a day in hot weather just to keep the plant from wilting.

Some have realized these downfalls with commercial potting mixes and have turned to making their own so they can have a mix that lasts for several years at the minimum. While organic matter breaks down quickly, minerals do not. Minerals are also what a plant is meant to grow in as that is their food source. Organic matter feeds the microbes, minerals and microbes feed the plants.

By using mineral-based mixes, we can minimize the need for adding potting mix every year to each pot. A certain amount of potting mix will always water out of the drainage holes. But with minerals, this matter isn’t decomposing and can be added back into the pot. Using a fabric pot will limit whatever waters out even more. This allows us to increase the amount of time our trees or perennials can stay in the same pot and potting mix which then reduces the amount of work we need to do. Something very welcome to me!

I have tried a handful of potting mixes over the years and the one that has done the best for me is based off of Gary Matsuoka’s Top Pot soil mix. He is the owner of Laguna Hills Nursery here in California and has a YouTube channel where he has recorded presentations on various topics, one of which is potting mix. He has generously shared the ratios of his potting mix in his videos which I have subsequently made for my plants.

In a short time though, I found his original ratios to not hold enough water for my plants. I am in a dry, drought area and I don’t want to water more than once a day at the height of the growing season and heat of the summer. They probably are perfect for a rainy area, but for me, I need more water retention. So that was change number 1. Change number 2 was to incorporate a small amount of coco coir into the mix. The reason is that peat alone shrinks and can become water-phobic. I found adding a small portion of coco coir helps to keep it fluffy and prevents water repelling.

This is my modified version of Gary’s Top Pot:

45% Sphagnum peat moss​

25% Pumice (or coarse perlite, to keep it lighter) (Other rock can be used instead, such as non-dyed lava rock, crushed limestone, crushed basalt, crushed granite, pea gravel, etc. Just know that other rock can be heavier than pumice.)

15% Coco coir

10% All-purpose builders' sand or coarse horticultural sand

5% Biochar

Mix it all together and you have potting mix!

This is a little heavier than your average potting mix, but I like that because the wind does not blow any pots over.

I personally can’t go higher than 10% sand because otherwise it is too heavy for my back. (It is a constant reminder I need to strengthen my core, haha. 😝) But I am able to lift this mix just fine.

This is also very easy to personalize to your own needs. If you need more moisture, increase the peat moss. If you need more drainage, increase the pumice or add chunky perlite. If you need it lighter, swap out the pumice for chunky or coarse perlite. (Not the small perlite, but the kind that look like chunky pebbles or little rocks.)

Don’t be afraid of the math, it’s calculator-friendly!

Whenever I have talked about this potting mix, I often find people are intimidated by either the math or the number of ingredients. But both are actually quite simple! Let’s deal with the math—

You just take the total amount of cubic feet of potting mix you want and times that number by the percent of each ingredient.

(1 cubic foot = 7.5 dry gallons)

Let’s say you want the equivalent of 3 bags of potting mix, usually this is around 2 cubic feet per bag, so 6 cubic feet in total. Take 6 and multiply it by the percent listed for each ingredient. That gives you how many cubic feet you will need to get of each ingredient to make your total desired amount of 6 cf.

For example:

6 X 45% = 2.7 So you will need to get 2.7 cf of peat moss

6 X 25% = 1.5 So you will need 1.5 cf of pumice

6 X 15% = 0.9 So you will need 0.9 cf of coco coir

6 X 10% = 0.6 So you will need 0.6 cf of sand

6 X 5% = 0.3 So you will need 0.3 cf of biochar

Mix the quantities all together and you now have 6 cf of potting mix or the equivalent of 3 bags.

A 5-gallon pot can hold around 12-17 quarts of soil, which is equivalent to about 0.5-0.7 cubic feet, depending on the size of the root ball going into the pot.

Let’s say you have four 5-gallon pots to fill. That is 2.8 cf of potting mix that will be needed. (4 X 0.7 = 2.8)

So you take that 2.8 and multiply it by the percentages to get the amount needed for each product so you will have enough to fill all of your pots.

Another way of looking at the percentages is to change it to parts:

6 parts peat

2.5 parts pumice

1 part sand

1/2 part biochar

The part numbers total 10 when added together. So they will give you approximately 10 dry measures of whatever recepticle you use for measuring. For example, if you use a 1 quart pitcher to scoop out your ingredients, you will end up with 10 quarts of material. Or, if you use a 3-gallon pot to measure your materials, you will have the equivalent to fill ten 3-gallon pots when everything is mixed together.

Okay, math is done! Moving on… 😅

This is not enough, you want a potting mix of gold??

Well… I hear ya. 😏 My plants are my babies too and I am reading about various things constantly that I want to try out. There are so many different mineral-based materials that can be used when making your own potting mix. So what some things we can modify to tailor it to our needs?

Play with the ratios to match your own personal needs: Note that my mix is 60% water-retaining and 40% aerating materials. This ratio can be adjusted anywhere down to 35% water retention and 65% aerating to match Gary’s original recipe. I wouldn't go lower than that. So you can change the ratios to match your climate and watering needs.

Change up the ingredients: There are so many cool things we can add to soil for nutrients, paramagnetism, CEC, etc. that all still fall under the mineral designation. Or perhaps we need to change according to what we have available locally. Not a problem! Here are some materials to play with. ↓

Water-retaining materials—

This is the only part not mineral-based. These are longer-lasting than wood products or compost.

• Sphagnum peat moss​

• Long strand coco coir

Aerating materials, no moisture retention—

• Pumice

• Coarse Perlite​, No. 3 or 4

• Volcanic rock

• Crushed Limestone (natural calcium!)

• Crushed Granite (like pebbles) (paramagnetic)

• Decomposed Granite (like sand) (paramagnetic)

• Pea Gravel

• Basalt crushed or dust, not fine, should be like pebbles or sand (paramagnetic)

Aerating materials, some moisture retention—

• Coarse Vermiculite

• Calcined Clay Pellets, such as EP Minerals Safe T Sorb

• Pelletized Zeolite, such as KMI 8x14 or 4x8 (good CEC)

• Pelletized Diatomaceous Earth, such as OptiSorb sifted​

• Biochar (paramagnetic)

• LECA (soak in water before using)

• Expanded Shale​

I am always playing around with each batch of potting mix, adding things, taking away things. (I often swap out a small portion of peat for vermiculite.) Much depends on what I have on hand or what I want to use up. I encourage you to as well! Try out some things and see what you like best.

Too much, too much, I want it more simple!

Hey, hey, sometimes we have lives to live outside of plants and just want something simpler. No problem, I got you too!

Simplified Top Pot:

55% Sphagnum peat moss​

30% Coarse Perlite, No. 3 or No. 4

15% All-purpose builders’ sand

♢ This is a good balanced mix that shouldn’t be too heavy and should work in a variety of climates. The materials are also commonly available.

There are also these simple mixes that can be used. ↓

Simple Mix 1:

1:1:1 peat : sand : perlite (or pumice)

♢ Good for areas that are rainy or those that want more aeration. This is a very aerated mix that will require a lot of watering.

Simple Mix 2:

50/50, Peat (or coco coir) / perlite (or pumice)

♢ A good balanced mix and starting point.

Simple Mix 3:

6 parts Sunshine Mix #4

1 part EP Minerals Safe T Sorb (found at auto supply stores and Tractor Supply)

♢ More water-retentive. Sunshine Mix #4 already has perlite mixed in at about 30%. Adding the calcined clay pellets makes it about 60% water retentive and 40% aerating. Make sure the clay pellets are mixed in well and not in a situation to clump together.

(This mix was recommended by a longtime fig grower with the user name AscPete on one of the fig forums. Credit goes totally to him.)

*All of the above mixes can also be used for rooting cuttings.*

Why should we add amendments?

All of the potting mixes above are essentially blank slates. Some will slowly provide nutrients over time, but they have no immediate nutrient availability for current growing needs. So we need to add them.

Some will say that peat moss has nutrients, but according to the Encyclopedia Britannica: “Peat moss typically contains less than 1 percent nitrogen, with phosphorus and potassium levels below 0.1 percent. It is primarily used to improve soil structure and water retention rather than as a significant source of nutrients.”

Peat moss is not considered a fertilizer due to its low nutrient levels. However, it is a good source of carbon, it can hold onto nutrients really well and has humic acid which helps to make nutrients more plant available.

Coco coir as it breaks down releases significant amounts of phosphorus and potassium. However, it is low in all other nutrients including calcium, nitrogen, and magnesium.

Sodium and chlorine can be quite high in coco coir and this is why it must be rinsed several times before using. Make sure any product you buy states that it has been rinsed, otherwise this is something you will need to do.

Decomposed granite or basalt both have various trace minerals, which is one reason I like to use them. Because they are a large part of my mix, I don’t need to add them separately later. Sand, however, is mostly just silica. Trees do love sand! But if sand is a primary ingredient, we will need to add the other trace minerals.

Perlite has zero nutrients, it is sterile and inert. Pumice also has very low nutrient content. Its advantage is that it has a ton of pores which store nutrients, are homes for microbes, and retains both water and air.

Biochar does not typically add nutrients, it depends on what it was made from. Usually, biochar is made from wood, but sometimes it is made from manure and that can have a lot of nutrients. I have seen biochar made from bone, and this can have both calcium and phosphorus. The majority of biochar on the market is wood-based though, and is not considered a nutrient source. Wood-based biochar needs to be charged before use, otherwise it can actually pull nutrients from the soil to hold onto them. It is charged simply by soaking it for a few hours in a nutrient solution of choice. Its primary purpose it to improve soil structure, it is long-lasting, it stores nutrients to release later, and microbes love it. It can also be paramagnetic in quality.

So here is what to add:

A mineral mix with calcium and trace elements should always be added. The mixture in this article can be used, or we can just add some oyster shell flour, some gypsum, and Azomite or glacial dust. If we used basalt, we can eliminate the Azomite. Mineral mixes can be added directly to the potting mix as we’re mixing it all together.

We should always top dress with organic matter. We don't want to mix in the organic matter into the potting mix in any great quantity because that will undo the benefit of having a mineral-based mix and it will no longer be considered that. A very, very small amount of worm castings can go into the mix, but it is best to primarily top dress with them as they will significantly decrease in volume very quickly. This is true for compost as well. Doing this mimics nature, and allows the nutrients to trickle down with each watering while preserving the soil volume in our pots.

Anytime you top dress, you usually want to mix your product into the top few inches of soil a little bit. This is because some items will clump together when water gets on them, such as calcium products, or the wind can blow them out of the pot. In other cases, we don’t want the product to dry out too much or be fully exposed to the sun because this can decrease microbial life or nutrient content, such as with worm castings or some types of compost. Because fig roots can grow close to the surface and it's harder to mix any top dressing into the first few inches, I prefer to mix these items with some extra potting mix first and then top dress with them all together.

Fertilizer should also be used throughout the growing season. You all know I am partial to ferments and fish amino acids. These are watered in or are top dressed if in a dry format, just like the above.

A mycorrhizal and bacterial product is also good to add if the peat moss does not already include it. It will help to make all of the nutrients available to your plants.

What is the best way to make a large batch of potting mix?

I have to admit, this is a tough one for me and I’m always on the lookout for good suggestions. Really you just have to buckle down and do it in my opinion.

Some suggest laying a heavy-duty tarp down on the ground and layering the materials on it. Then you use the tarp edges to pick it up and roll the materials together until sufficiently mixed. (You may find some videos on YouTube of this or of using a tarp to mix concrete, it’s the same concept.)

Others use compost tumblers or concrete mixers (without concrete powder residue in them) to mix everything together in batches.

My elderly dad, who’s still quite an active guy, just likes to dump everything out onto our concrete patio and mixes it all together with a shovel, rake, or hoe as appropriate. He won’t do otherwise!

How to store extra potting mix?

I store extra potting mix in 10-gallon plastic trash cans with lids and these have done just fine for me. Large plastic totes can also work. Same with buckets with lids.

Some use heavy-duty trash bags with ties. Just be careful to avoid fragranced ones as they can contain chemicals that are not desirable for plants.

What about using soil from my backyard?

Well, you certainly can do that if you like. Some have really great soil and you might as well use it if you have it. The main downfall to this is weight. This is why most potting mixes are based on composted wood fines or peat moss — they are so much lighter. Technically, many plants and trees in nurseries used to be grown in sand as it was cheap and readily available. It was the hefty weight that made it undesirable as nursery plants are meant to be moved and carried to gardens. Our own soil can be just as heavy.

The other caution is if your soil is very clay-based or otherwise unbalanced, it may give you more trouble than it is worth. But if you feel like giving it a try, I ain’t gonna stop you! 😉

There has to be one I can buy, right?

If you like the idea of making your own, but just feel overwhelmed by it, I totally understand. As mentioned above, Gary’s Top Pot is a great one… if you can find it. It’s mostly located in California at select nurseries.

When purchasing a mix, look for one made for trees, such as a palm or citrus mix. Sometimes a cactus or succulent mix can work as well. If they are too aerated, you can add a little bag of peat to them. These still will not have the same longevity as the above mixes, but they do usually have more mineral components in them which helps.

Stay away from mixes designed for vegetables or cannabis, such as Fox Farm. They are great mixes for the type of plants they are made for, but they are not meant for long-term growing or for trees. You may have to re-pot more often than you’d like with them.

These potting mixes are the perfect canvas to build upon. So go forth and paint them with fig tree life!

What do you think? Will you make one of these or do you have a favorite already that you make? Let me know!

What I found was a newer paper praising the benefits of aeration for helping with root initiation. They found that 100% perlite promoted the highest rooting percentages. In fact, the difference was quite significant. Though to be fair, root elongation was comparatively better in the 2:1 peat-to-perlite mixture which was also part of the experiment. They concluded that “substrates with high aeration and moderate water-holding capacity are critical for adventitious root initiation.” Adventitious root initiation is exactly what we want when rooting cuttings!

So why did the 2:1 peat-to-perlite mixture not have very good rooting success? (Afterall, this is roughly the ratio of the ever popular Pro-Mix HP or Sunshine Mix #4.) Well, maybe because there are already multiple studies stating that the best success for figs was achieved in 1:1 peat to perlite mixes. There is your additional air!

They also stated this: “The poor rooting performance in peat-based substrates may be attributed to reduced aeration and waterlogging effects, which impair oxygen diffusion to basal cut surfaces.”

Air is important to rooting success.

If you’ve read much here, perhaps you know this is preaching to the choir. It’s not easy rooting in 100% perlite though. Perlite dries out fast! And cuttings need consistent moisture to start roots. In some of these studies using so much perlite, they utilize misting systems that spray the cutting or the medium at set intervals to keep it all wet enough. Well, not everyone has access to something like that nor the time to go by every 10 minutes with a spray bottle. It also can be quite difficult to up-pot a cutting rooted in perlite because it does not hold together as it is removed from the container. This stress on the roots can cause losses.

Currently, I mostly use pumice because I really dislike perlite in my mixes. It floats. It washes out. It crushes easily. The dust is a hazard. It just isn't my favorite and pumice does an equal job without those disadvantages. However, perlite is typically easier to find and get for most people than pumice, so it seems worthwhile to experiment with it. Both have a certain amount of capillary action, which is where water is drawn up to a certain level, much like how fluid is drawn up in a straw in a glass of water above the water line. The size of the particle affects this, with smaller particles drawing it up higher, and larger particles drawing it up less. This can aid in keeping a cutting moist up to a certain height as long as water is at the bottom.

So just thinking out loud… They felt that the cuttings rooted in 100% perlite ended up with shorter roots because of the lack of nutrients in the perlite. Is this really so though considering peat does not have a lot of nutrients itself? Well, peat does have humic substances and carbon which provide benefit. Can we do better than that? Coco coir has good amounts of both potassium and phosphorus. Phosphorus is known for helping with root growth, so it should have an advantage. Compost also has nutrients, can that be used without causing rot or an insect infestation indoors? At the end of the day, it is better to have a cutting with shorter roots than a rotted cutting, don’t you agree?

I’ve already landed on 1:1 as being a good mix for rooting from past experience and have written about it before. 1:1 mixes are what makes the compromise here so that you get higher rates of successful rooting along with root elongation and your substate isn’t falling apart at up-pot. I don’t need to experiment with different ratios at this time. But… I have read that sand and perlite combined work well for rooting too. I haven’t tried that yet! If high aeration causes faster rooting, will it hold together better from the finer sand particles and can we get enough roots so that it doesn’t fall apart at up-potting?

My curiosity is asking what is the best 1:1 combo for the ultimate in rooting success and growth while keeping it simple. The mentioned fig friend wants to know if coco coir is better over peat. (I kind of want to know that too.) I also want to know if we can achieve better root elongation with a simple but highly aerated mix, so we need something to provide nutrients. I also read in a paper that pomegranate cuttings rooted the best in a 1:1 perlite to vermiculite mix. Where the heck did pomegranate come from?? I know, I know… We’re talking figs here. That was a very random insert. Though, that could help with the nutrient retention issue with perlite while maintaining high aeration since vermiculite can absorb things while also providing aeration. We already know 50/50 (or 1:1) is the magic rooting ratio, sooo…

Disclaimer: This is a personal experiment and not a recommendation. Feel free to join in for your own fun, but please do not be disappointed if it does not work out as expected. This is not a tried and true method as of yet. Read and follow at your own risk!

The fifth and final experiment…

(This one is a doozy, prepare yourself)

Battle of The 50/50s

I have 25 fig cuttings from various sources. A few are of the same variety, but the majority are different. I will put 5 cuttings each into the following 50/50 combinations:

• Perlite: Vermiculite

• Perlite: Peat

• Perlite: Coco Coir

• Perlite: Sand

• Perlite: Vermicompost (Worm compost, not to be confused with vermiculite)

Half will receive 1/4 cup of soft rock phosphate for the needed calcium since they all lack it and to see if it helps to improve rooting success and elongation.

But wait, there's more…

We’ve also been having some nice discussions on seaweed— how it has growth hormones and stimulants, antifungal properties, and both macro and micro nutrients. There is so much good stuff in seaweed! And, there are a lot of products on the market. Which is the better one? Obviously, a cold or gentle process for extraction is ideal when we are wanting to preserve these great aspects of seaweed. So I looked up a few products that advertise themselves as such and wanted to compare them.

Does one stimulate faster rooting? Does one cause better growth overall? Let’s find out!

Taking one each out of the five different combos above to form a set, I will first soak the cuttings in one of the seaweed products and I will then moisten the substrate using that product in the water. For it to match the 50/50 experiment, I will fertilize with the same soaking product every other watering, or 50% of all waterings, with 50% of the recommended plant dose as the cuttings grow (or not if they croak 😜). They will get the same product the entire time until up-pot. These are the products:

• Dried seaweed ferment! 😲 Remember Experiment 1? (I may not have done the update yet when this comes out, but one will be forthcoming…)

• Kelpak (made from Ecklonica Maxima Kelp) This is the pricey one harder to obtain. They claim to have the highest auxin and cytokinin content of any seaweed product, and there are papers indicating it has a high rooting effect.

• Bloom City Clean Kelp (made from a variety of seaweeds, including Ecklonica Maxima and Ascophyllum Nodosum) This is the moderate, easy-to-obtain one.

• Kelp It Real Soluble Seaweed Powder (made from Ascophyllum Nodosum) 1 lb can make roughly 100-400 gallons. This is another moderate, easy-to-obtain choice. (Ferti-Organic may be a cheaper option if you can find it.)

But wait, there’s more… again!

This is where it really gets random. A while back ago, I was looking up analysis reports of sparkling mineral waters. I wanted a water with a specific silica content for human reasons. But as I was reading the mineral contents, I was struck by how much I felt like I was reading fertilizer analyses. I know plants like carbon too… So, I wondered if it was a thing to water plants with carbonated mineral water. Apparently, it is! One website even said it is quite common in Italy. Who knew?

The carbolic acid in sparkling water can help to make minerals available to plants. There have even been studies on it. It also influences microbial activity. There are warnings about not overdoing it, as it and the high amount of minerals can cause toxicity, like with any fertilizer. But still… my interest is piqued!

Gerolsteiner is an easily available, naturally sparkling mineral water in my area. These are the stats for it:

TDS 2,527 mg/l

ph factor 5.9

Hardness 1,299 mg/l

Nitrate 5.1 mg/l

Calcium 347 mg/l

Magnesium 108 mg/l

Sodium 119 mg/l

Potassium 10.8 mg/l

Silica 40.2 mg/l

Bicarbonate 1,817 mg/l

Sulfate 36.3 mg/l

Chloride 39.7 mg/l

I mean, it even has nitrate in it… So, I think I’ll give it a go! I am looking at that sodium number though as well as the bicarbonate and will be careful with the amount I use. I will give 1/2 of the internet recommended dose every other watering to one set of the 5 different substrates as a comparison. How do naturally occurring minerals in water compare to the minerals in seaweed? Hopefully, we’ll find out!

So there you have it: 50% perlite to 50% various other substrates, and 50% natural mineral fertilizers to 50% RO water. The 50/50.

Thoughts so far…

It really is kind of a smorgasbord of experiments, like a three-for-one. Talk about saving the biggest and best for last! I think that this is the one that can be of most benefit to average growers and hope to show any pros and cons to the different items that are available for rooting.

This is also a bit of a commitment and I’m feeling the responsibility of it. Normally, because these experiments are done with just myself knowing, I can let it go if I need to, because, you know, life! Hopefully, all goes smoothly though and I can share some good info at the end of it all.

This one kind of crams it all in, but it feels good to learn things that can be helpful in whittling down a world of options. Funny how just months ago I thought I wouldn’t root anything at all this winter, (which I have also said and failed at the last three winters in a row.) How things change when you get ideas! 😜

Sooo, interested in any results? …

Speaking of air… An ode to all of the cuttings out there rooting right now. (Like, literally. Giving your cuttings some air is love to them, so love IS in the air. Get it?? … Oh whatever. Enjoy and sing it loud to those rooting babies! 😉)

Well, we’re all full of bubbles and gas with this one! Which will have the best results? Any guesses???

(I’m just hoping the expensive one doesn’t win for the seaweeds, haha. This hobby is pricey enough as is! 😅)

(I feel like it also could have been called the Inception Experiment since it is an experiment within an experiment within an experiment. Or, The Russian Doll? 🤔 So many places to go with this one…)

I randomly came across this research paper talking about using coconut water for rooting fig cuttings. Now, this isn’t exactly new to me— I have used coconut water before as a “refreshing boost” 🍹 of sorts to my rooting cuttings. I know it has all sorts of plant benefits.

What people may not think about though is that a coconut is a giant seed and as seeds do, it contains all of the nutrients needed to germinate a coconut tree. Coconuts are full of sugars, vitamins, minerals, amino acids and phyto hormones which help in maintaining and initiating healthier growth of plants. Coconut water has the characteristics of a root hormone as it contains different plant growth regulators such as indole acetic acid (IAA), cytokinin, abscisic acid, and salicylic acid. Cytokinin is an important one for cell division and formation of shoot meristems. Its presence helps to promote rapid plant growth. It also contains natural auxins (IAA) which help in adventitious root development. Coconut water includes minerals such as potassium, sodium, calcium, phosphorus, iron, copper, sulphur and chlorides. Sugar solutions are also thought to benefit cuttings, so it’s possible the natural sugars in coconut water may help here.

Here is a nutrient label on one brand of coconut water, note the calcium, potassium, phosphorus, and magnesium:

The benefits of coconut water are huge! Does it by chance remind you of any other type of plant we have talked about here that aids in stimulating growth? … Of course it does! Seaweed! Coconut has growth stimulants, seaweed has growth stimulants… aloe vera does too.

Hold up, we need to talk about aloe vera now too. This is also one that is not new to me, I have heard that it has a ton of plant benefits and can help with rooting as well because of the salicylic acid in it. I have tried it before and, at the time, didn't feel like it added that much advantage to go out of my way to use it as a rooting hormone substitute. It is noted though that Aloe vera extracts contain nutrients, vitamins, enzymes, amino acid, and sugars, as well as plants sterols, gibberellins, and salicylic acid (SA), and are associated with improvements in vegetative growth (particularly root growth). I mean, that is an advantage, is it not? It sounds like the desert’s version of seaweed in many ways.

One paper stated this—

“…the lowest number of roots per cuttings (2.3) was produced in distilled water treatment (control). Coconut water increased the number of roots in Parkia biglobosa [Dunsin et al. (2016)] and aloe vera had similar results of the increased number of roots in roots invitro condition in Populus tremula hybrid ‘Michx’ [El Sherif (2017)]. The presence of proteins, vitamins, minerals and sugars and natural hormones in aloe vera and coconut water gives the combination a higher potential to drive better growth than synthetic hormones like IBA.”

Another paper stated this—

“The application of aloe vera gel is helpful in increasing root weight of cuttings (Sahu et al., 2013). The data of olive cutting is in according to that of El-Sherif et al. (2017) observed that Aloe vera gel application can result in an increase in root weight, as it contains IAA which can act as an alternative root hormone. Table 10 shows the survival percentage of olive cuttings the survival percentage The salicylic acid (SA) concentration significantly affects the survival percentage.”

It just seems as though aloe vera needs to be revisited on my part, especially for this experiment. So here we go!

Disclaimer: This is a personal experiment and not a recommendation. Feel free to join in for your own fun, but please do not be disappointed if it does not work out as expected. This is not a tried and true method as of yet. Read and follow at your own risk!

The fourth experiment…

Natural Plant Growth Regulators

— Coconut water

— Aloe vera

— Seaweed

I have 8 cuttings, four are duplicates, the others are different varieties. I soaked two cuttings in 50% coconut water, two in 50% fresh aloe vera water, and two in the recommended dilution on a bottle of a cold extracted seaweed fertilizer (Ascophyllum nodosum). The last two cuttings were soaked in a 50/50 combination of the aloe vera and coconut water dilutions. All were soaked for approximately 24 hours. The soaking water was also used to hydrate the rooting medium of 1:1:1 peat: pumice: vermiculite.

I will fertilize each successfully rooted cutting with a higher dilution of the same product they were soaked in until up-potting, with a possible exception to the fresh aloe that I may swap for bottled. (I forgot to add in soft rock phosphate with this batch of rooting mix so I may water that in later as well.)

Thoughts so far…

I would have loved to have used freshly cracked open coconut water. Unfortunately, that was not available or feasible. So I tried to use the least processed one I knew of which was by Harmless Harvest.

There was an internal debate with myself as to what dilution was best for the aloe and coconut water. The paper I first read on coconut water used 20 & 30% dilutions, with the best success being with the 20% one. Another paper using a different type of plant to root had good success with a 50% dilution. I figured I would try the 50% because I know you can put straight aloe onto cuttings and the coconut water did not taste too strong or concentrated. It seemed like it could be a good comparison.

It was interesting though, I think the coconut water one and the aloe-coconut one started to ferment during the overnight soak. There were quite a few bubbles the next day. So that may be an argument for using a lower dilution, though I do not think it will harm the cuttings since I use ferments all of the time for soaking cuttings. I just know that you do not want it to develop much of a film on top as that can adversely affect them.

I am really excited to see how these do! I’m mostly excited for the coconut and aloe combo, I can’t wait to see how that one turns out. I know that you can get powdered forms of all three. I have no idea if that processing hurts the level of growth hormone in them, but certainly that may be a more convenient way of trying this out in the future if it seems worthy.

TO BE CONTINUED…

Winter Experiments Playlist— Could it be anything other than this one??

🎵 Put da fig in da coke-u-nut an call me in the morning woo wooo 🎶

What do you guys think? Will there be a difference in rooting? Will the cuttings mold? Which will root first?? Will any rot?? Are you on the edge of your seat, biting your nails in anticipation??? How will you find out the results????

If you’ve been on any fig forum you know that one of the top discussions involves the best methods for rooting cuttings. Everyone has an opinion on this — literally everyone. One of the more popular rooting methods involves using diatomaceous earth pellets, specifically OptiSorb. (Shout out to Gina!) This is a method that has worked well for many people, especially those who struggle with over-watering their new cuttings. It also helps as a natural pest barrier and limits issues with fungus gnats, which is a common problems for indoor rooting or in greenhouses.

But… there are a ton of other pelletized or granular products that are plant-friendly as well. One of these is zeolite, yes, the same as used for an odor absorber in cat litter and chicken coops. Zeolite is a natural volcanic mineral and is known for having high CEC, (cation exchange capacity). CEC refers to the ability of soil to store and exchange cations, such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium which is important for nutrient transfer to plants. Zeolite is unique in that it is negatively charged and has a honeycomb structure. These properties mean that it attracts and holds on to positively charged ions, preventing them from being washed out of the soil. It has a big bearing on nutrient storage and availability for plants. It buffers soil acidification as well, affecting pH. Zeolite pellets also help to improve water retention and aeration. All of this helps with stronger root development and healthier plants.

Another popular pelleted product is calcined clay. Calcined clay is commonly sold as Turface or Safe T Sorb. It is made by heating clay to high temperatures changing it from being soft and pliable to hard and porous. It helps with water drainage and aeration. Due to its nature, it is also able to retain moisture and nutrients. This one will also help with root and plant health.

Akadama soil is very popular in the bonsai world. It is a naturally occurring volcanic clay originating from Japan. It has a unique structure that allows it to absorb and retain water while also providing drainage. Akadama soil is very rich in minerals and has potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium as well as trace minerals. It is called “the king of potting soils”.

Disclaimer: This is a personal experiment and not a recommendation. Feel free to join in for your own fun, but please do not be disappointed if it does not work out as expected. This is not a tried and true method as of yet. Read and follow at your own risk!

The third experiment…

Battle of The Granulars

I have four cuttings from the same source. All are different varieties. All have three nodes with large spacing and look like they were taken from similar parts of a branch. They were soaked for 72 hours in dilute seaweed water before potting.

I am using pelleted or rock forms of the above-mentioned granular products obtained from a quick Amazon order and mixing them with a certain amount of peat due to my drier climate. The amount of peat added was based on the particle size used and all were under 40%, with the Akadama clay getting the least at no more than 5%. All were rinsed to remove fine particulate and then I soaked the pellets for about an hour in diluted seaweed water and fig FPJ before mixing with the peat to make sure they were as hydrated as possible. Only the Akadama was not soaked since it became quite crumbly when wet and seemed more inclined to break down.

The 1st cup is Akadama soil and peat, the 2nd cup is green zeolite and peat, the 3rd cup is calcined clay and peat, and the 4th is diatomite rock and peat. (Left to right below.)

Thoughts so far…

I am worried if my products were contaminated. Everything I received from Amazon smells strongly like scented disinfectant spray. With the nature of these products, they really absorbed that scent. Hopefully, this does not prevent proper growth. While Amazon comes through in a pinch, I do prefer my usual sources for these products.

The Akadama I received is quite crumbly. I think it may not be the best on its own without other things to provide consistent aeration. It’s an interesting product, but I don’t think it will be long-lasting. It is more costly, and so I would only use it for small-scale rooting.

I am looking forward to seeing what the roots are like should they take and grow. It will be an interesting comparison to mixes that are more fine and dense.

I am undecided on this one for if it will be successful. I think the chances are hanging around 50/50. Let’s see what happens!

TO BE CONTINUED…

A classic for this winter playlist with all of these little particles hanging around …

A pellet a day keeps the fungus gnats away… that’s how it goes, right??

Well, what do you think? Will they root? Will they thrive or will they die? Will it be a struggle keeping it wet enough? What about up-potting??? Only one way to find out, friends…

It would not be a real winter for me without a few rooting experiments going on. This is seriously one of the nerdy joys of my life. 🤓 Even though I have a rooting method that is very successful for me, I am not content to leave well enough alone. The drive to learn more and understand how things work is just… there! I know I am not alone in this, so here is to my fellow learners and observers of life.

A rabbit hole I intend to fully dive into soon is on paramagnetism and plant health. I have only dabbled in it so far. Paramagnetism is said to be “a powerful growth force which enhances root development and stimulates the multiplication of microorganisms.” — Nexus Magazine

Sounds intriguing, yes? I mean… I would like to have a powerful-growth-force-that-enhances-root-development on my cuttings, wouldn't you? In various places around the world, better plant growth has been seen at places with rocks that have high paramagnetic qualities. One article mentions that there is a 6-point difference in Brix between plants grown in low- and high-paramagnetic soils. Why does this phenomenon seem to benefit plants?

Phil Callahan at one time speculated that paramagnetic materials are a source of subterranean light to increase root growth. In an interview with Nexus Magazine, he stated: “Paramagnetic force is light from rocks for the roots. The rock is actually a transceiver, collecting magnetism from the cosmos and throwing it back out to the roots. If you take a paramagnetic rock and put it into Dr [Fritz-Albert] Popp’s lab in Germany and measure it with his instruments which count photons one at a time, you’ll find that a highly paramagnetic rock puts out 2,000 to 4,000 photons. If you put that rock with some compost, if you treat it organically, it goes from 2,000 to 4,000 photons to 400,000 photons. Now you are generating a light for roots. Roots are wave-guides, just like the antennae on insects. If you clean off the roots and shine a light on them, they’ll wave-guide just like a fibre optic. Dr Popp has a US$100,000 instrument to measure light in the form of photons...

“Some of my experimental work suggests huge increases in plant performance. For example, I took rye grown in sandy soils with a paramagnetic level of 60 cgs [centimetres-grams-seconds] and fed those soils with paramagnetic rock. The rye, before treatment, had 10 to 15 nitrogen nodules on the roots, but after treatment the number increased to 200 nodules. It suggests that the bacteria in the soil can’t convert minerals into a plant-available form without this paramagnetic force. They will never utilise all that fertiliser they’re dumping on them without the paramagnetic force. This force is to roots what light is to chlorophyll. If you don’t have light, then chlorophyll can’t work. If you don’t have paramagnetic force, then the roots can’t work…

“Paramagnetism stimulates bacteria to increase the bio-availability of micro- and macro-nutrients, but if you don’t have those nutrients present, you won’t get the desired results. You could theoretically have a soil measuring 15,000, but without calcium it would not produce… Soil life is the thing. Paramagnetism works with compost. There may be hundreds of organic growers out there doubling their yields, but when you apply the same material to a dead, chemically farmed soil it won’t work. If you don’t have a minimum level of organic matter, paramagnetism doesn’t work… compost is the key.”

It is also stated that paramagnetic materials can increasing water holding capacity in soils up to 50%. It is thought that this is one reason why certain cultures were able to farm in places with low rainfall or why some plants do so well growing out of rocks.

So here are the stated benefits of paramagnetism: 1) increased water retention, 2) microbial stimulation and increased earthworm action, 3) improved nutrient utilization, 4) improved seed germination, 5) resistance to predators and environmental stresses.

A little late to say this, but what is paramagnetism? This term is used to describe an energetic alignment with Earth’s magnetic field. Paramagnetic materials align their own magnetic field in the same direction as magnetic poles, whereas diamagnetic materials align their fields in the opposite direction from these poles. Water and plants are diamagnetic. Soil is paramagnetic.

What increases paramagnetism in soils? Correcting calcium to magnesium ratios and increasing oxygen helps with this. Calcium is paramount in order to get a good response from paramagnetic rock dusts. Oxygen is considered a highly paramagnetic gas. Its association makes sense since higher oxygen content is often associated with volcanic rock, and volcanic rock is associated with higher paramagnetism. Basalt crusher dust can be highly paramagnetic. Good quality compost is important for paramagnetism to work. Also, having all of the minerals available and good microbial levels. Biochar can be paramagnetic according to some. Granite also has paramagnetic qualities.

Disclaimer: This is a personal experiment and not a recommendation. Feel free to join in for your own fun, but please do not be disappointed if it does not work out as expected. This is not a tried and true method as of yet. Read and follow at your own risk!

The second experiment…

High Paramagnetic Rooting Medium

I have four cuttings. Two are the same variety and two are different. The cuttings were soaked for 48 hours in dilute seaweed water.

(In a true experiment, they would all be the same variety, from the same location on the branch, but this is informal and for fun. 😉)

The 1st cup contains all basalt. The 2nd cup contains all biochar. The 3rd cup contains equal parts basalt and biochar. The 4th cup contains equal parts basalt, biochar, and peat.

Nutrients: All four cups have 1/2 cup each of soft rock phosphate and worm castings added. I am watering with seaweed water that has a little dab of fig FPJ. The biochar I got was already charged by the seller with soy amino acids.

Initial Thoughts…

Granted, I do not have a meter or any tool to check for paramagnetism. I have no idea if the products I used register high or low cgs. So this is an experiment based on guesses and hopes that they are high. The ingredients themselves can be and should be high, but anything that is exposed to weather or water can be low despite what material they are. So everything being done is just for personal observation.

The basalt I received this time was more dust-like and less sandy than previous ones I have gotten. This is great for an amendment, but maybe not so great for rooting in. It came out very sludgy. I have concerns that there may not be enough air and that it may pack around the cutting making it hard for roots to work through.

I think ideally basalt and biochar would be used just as amendments to whatever standard rooting medium is used and they are less ideal as sole rooting mediums. But still, this is an interesting experiment to me, so we’ll see what happens. I think the chance for success is lower with this one, so no one hold their breath!

Let’s await the results…

Nothing seems more fitting than music tuned to 432 Hz which connects to Earth’s natural frequency of 7.83 Hz, and Chopin’s Nocturnes at that, to go with the darkest rooting medium I have ever used. Enjoy and relax for a moment as we align with the Earth —

I can just picture it… everyone’s fingernails if biochar turns out to be a good rooting medium, hehe. 🌘

What do you think? Will they root?? Will they croak??? How will you know??!

Disclaimer: This is a personal experiment and not a recommendation. Feel free to join in for your own fun, but please do not be disappointed if it does not work out as expected. This is not a tried and true method as of yet. Read and follow at your own risk!

The first experiment…

Dried Seaweed Ferment

Okay, you guys already know — I’ve got a thing for fermentations. Plants love them, nutrients and microbes are at the ready. They are just soo… GOOD!

What motivated this experiment was a post on a forum where someone had a fig cutting that had rooted but had no top growth. I was thinking the whole time I was reading about it, it’s too bad she doesn't have a seaweed ferment. It would give growth hormone and nutrients ready to be utilized by the baby plant. And of course it hits me, I don’t have a seaweed ferment either!

Now, I live in California which is technically a coastal state, but I live like 1.5 hours away from the beach depending on traffic. So I’m not at the beach all of the time and I don’t know the good seaweed spots, traffic is a pain, [insert more excuses here]… I just didn't want to get some fresh seaweed. So my friend has a lot of dried seaweed she doesn't want to use, and this was perfect! Let’s try making a ferment using dried seaweed to see how it goes!

I also have never made a plant fermentation using molasses before. It seems perfect to combine two of my favorite inputs for trace minerals and potassium together into one ferment. YouTube becomes my friend here and before I know it, I have a recipe to use! The process is technically for fresh seaweed, as ferments typically go, but because it uses water already, I feel safe using it for dried seaweed.

Here is how it goes…

The original recipe:

• 10 kg (22 lbs.) fresh from the ocean seaweed, rinsed & chopped up

• 1.75 kg (3.86 lbs.) blackstrap molasses

  — Mix the two well until moisture releases from the seaweed by massaging with your hands.

• Add 2 liters of water

This is all combined well and put into an appropriately sized food-safe (non-metal) receptacle, covered tightly with a breathable cloth and allowed to ferment for 1 month. Any solids are then strained out and the remaining liquid is used diluted for fertilizing. The solids can be composted or buried in your garden beds.

How I modified it:

Since I did not have fresh seaweed, I used 4 lbs of dried seaweed flakes. I first rehydrated them by covering them with RO water. I topped off the water a couple of times until it didn't absorb anymore. I tried to keep it exact so that it would mimic fresh seaweed and did not want it swimming in excess water. My 4 lbs dried turned into about 22 lbs rehydrated, which was 10.05 kg. I wasn't expecting it to work out to the exact amount, but had an idea because a quick internet search said that dried seaweed could absorb water 5-10 times its weight.

I stirred it well with the molasses but did not massage it in because it was already flaked and I wasn't trying to extract the moisture from the rehydrated seaweed.

My gut told me to add in an inoculant since we aren’t dealing with fresh plant material, so I mixed in 1 tablespoon of EM-1 as well.

All of this fit into a 5-gallon bucket.

The seaweed I used was 1 lb each of:

• Irish Moss flakes (iron, calcium, potassium, magnesium, trace minerals)

• Sea Lettuce flakes (one of the highest in calcium, plus iron, potassium, and magnesium)

• Rockweed granules (Ascophyllum nodosum, fucoidan and alginic acid, manganese, and magnesium)

• Laver granules (iron, magnesium, manganese, and zinc)

I’m really excited about the sea lettuce! The calcium content should be very helpful to rooted cuttings. And of course, rockweed is the most commonly used seaweed for fertilizer and is well-known for its root growth promoting properties as well as helping to stimulate vegetative growth. I figure this is all going to be high in iron also and should have some decent non-toxic manganese content.

Do you want to use dried seaweed for your plants too?

This could easily be done on a smaller scale than the above ratios.

For example:

• 8 oz of dried seaweed, not toasted or smoked, broken into pieces (or use flaked seaweed) and rehydrated for a few hours to 2.5 lbs (approximately, depends on the type of seaweed.)

• 7 oz of blackstrap molasses

• 7.5 oz of RO or distilled water

(Hint, hint… Any takers to try it?? 🤓)

There are a lot of places to get dried seaweed, here are a few: Asian markets, health food stores, Heritage Seaweed, Ironbound Island Seaweed, Vitamin Sea Seaweed, or Maine Coast Sea Vegetables. The main thing is to get plain seaweed that is not cooked, smoked, or seasoned in any way. Rinsing is optional; some say yes to remove any excess salt, others say no because you are removing minerals and perhaps beneficial microbes as well. I’m on the fence with it and did not rinse mine, though I would have if I had seen any salt buildup on the dried seaweed.

You can also make a fresh tea with dried seaweed and water your plants with it if you are not into fermenting. Just take a portion of dried seaweed, rehydrate it for about 15-30 minutes with fresh water to cover, and then purée it all in a blender or food processor, add the purée to about 16 times* more fresh water and let sit to brew overnight (minimum 5 hours, maximum 24 hours.) The finer the purée and the longer the brew time, the more nutrients that are extracted. Strain out and save the liquid and either discard or compost the solids. Water your plants with the reserved liquid. Refrigerate any unused tea and use within 3-5 days, let it warm up at room temperature to take the chill off before use.

*For example, one cup of puréed seaweed to 16 cups (1 gallon) of water; or one tablespoon of purée to 16 tablespoons (1 cup) of water.

You can also make a tea using granular kelp fertilizer. Add the granules to about 16 times more water (room temperature) and let brew 24-48 hours, then strain and use the liquid.

Thoughts so far…

I don’t recommend trying the ferment with powdered seaweed. I don’t think that would work well in a ferment like this. This initial experiment was with flaked seaweed, but I’m already anticipating it being a pain to strain with the large amount I used. I’m secretly hoping some of it dissolves during the fermentation process. I also have some whole dried seaweed pieces, and I may attempt this again using those just for ease in separating out the solids. It’s a pros and cons situation with having more surface area for extraction or ease in separating. A nice compromise may be a longer ferment time with larger pieces.

My initial concerns are for any potential mold growth and whether the EM-1 will be enough to stop it. Usually, fresh, unwashed plant material is used, in part, because of the bacteria and yeasts that are naturally on them which assist in the fermentation and the live enzymes in them which assist in breaking down the material. I think we’ll be alright as is, but time will tell.

I’m also wondering if I’ll end up needing to add more water during the process. I’ll check it periodically to make sure it doesn't become a solid mass in the bucket.

I’m excited to see how fermenting it increases any enzymatic activity. I already use powdered soluble seaweed for fertilizing, but dried and powdered things sometimes lack the oomph of something fresh. I think this can make a nice, happy in-between product for use. If it turns out well, I may submit it for a nutrient analysis. “May” being the keyword, haha. 😜

TO BE CONTINUED…

I haven’t done this in a while… Winter Experiments Playlist first song!

(Nooo, I was not humming this while mixing the above concoction... 😏 Is it SOO 2021???)

How will the ferment turn out?? Will it be a moldy mess??? Will it be used??! Will plants die???!! Only one way to find out, friends… See you in the next one!

I’m so excited to share with you guys this interview with Kim Tien. She is our first interviewee from the PNW. There are a lot of fig growers in that region and they each have their own unique climate situation which can really vary from one area to the next. How do they deal with overcast days and rainy weather? I myself really looked forward to hear what she had to say and know you will as well. Everyone, here’s Kim —

(But first, here’s the musical vibe Kim wished to share with you all. Please press play👇)

Location: Seattle, WA Zone 8B

I’m a stay-at-home parent, and I homeschool both of my kids. Most of my days revolve around them: learning together, exploring, and watching how they grow. When I have a little time to myself, I enjoy reading and watching movies.

My biggest passion, though, is growing fruit, especially figs. I’ve been trialing and testing different edible fruits that can grow well here in Washington State. I’m based in Seattle, where the weather is gentler and we get free rainwater nine months of the year! Trees love rainwater. They can tell the difference between natural rain and tap water. I think that’s why I love gardening here. Everything teaches patience. You learn to work with what each season gives you, not against it. In winter, I focus on repotting. In early spring, I prune. During summer, I fertilize, water, and enjoy the harvest. And when fall arrives, I start preparing and planning for the months ahead.

Along with figs, I also grow mulberries, pears, table grapes, Asian persimmons, crabapples, pluerries, strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries. Besides edible fruit gardens, I have a deep appreciation for Japanese gardens and bonsai. I’m drawn to the beauty of simple designs and how they can transform small spaces into places of calm and peace. Each bonsai is like a person, it has its own unique story. Most of them reveal both the strength of endurance and the grace of beauty.

I ate my first fresh fig from my local market, and I was instantly hooked. When I looked up how to grow figs in Washington State, I came across Ben Nguyen’s blog and his YouTube channel and it completely blew my mind. That’s where my whole fig addiction began.

I have several hundred trees now, though to be fair, many of them are duplicates. I’ve lost a lot of trees over the years for different reasons, and keeping backups gives me peace of mind. It helps me stay calm when I lose one.

Right now, most of my figs are grown in pots. My largest one is in a 45-gallon pot, anything bigger than 30 gallons can’t really be moved. I usually repot all of my trees once a year. In the past, when my kids were younger, I fell behind on that, but this past winter I finally repotted every tree, and they responded really well.

For the first time ever, I’m actually ahead of schedule. All my trees have been fertilized on time! I used to have a greenhouse, but I took it down to make more space. I rehomed most of my greenhouse-type fruit trees for now, but I plan to recollect them once I can build a larger and better setup.

At the moment, I don’t have irrigation. I’m still in the process of organizing and deciding which trees to keep, which to rehome, and which need replacing after winter losses. So for now, I hand-water everything. During winter, I leave all of the pots outside, even the more sensitive varieties that technically should be moved, because my main goal right now isn’t fruit production; it’s survival.

Most trees do fine, but some have died due to rodents or ground animals damaging the trunks. We’ve been addressing that and replacing the ones we’ve lost. Last winter was actually my hardest year, I lost more trees than ever before. I’ve kept a list of the ones I want to recollect.

I often sell, trade, or gift away extras, but I somehow end up needing to recollect them again later. I try to keep backups while managing limited space. I use only organic soil and fertilizer, so my trees might not grow as fast as others’, but I’m still experimenting with what works best both in fertilizer type and schedule. Each year teaches me something new. I never seem to run out of something new to learn with gardening!

Growing figs has added the joy of sharing notes and making new friends. There’s something special about connecting with people who understand the same quiet obsession. When you’re at a fig or fruit event, surrounded by others who share that same passion, you don’t feel alone anymore. It feels like finding your people.

The hardest thing has been trialing new varieties. It takes time, labor, and patience and sometimes there’s almost no information available. The only way to know how a variety performs is to try it yourself. Some rare varieties can also be extremely expensive to obtain, so each trial carries both risk and reward.

Growing things has absolutely brought benefits to me. I was already into gardening before COVID hit, but during those two years, it became my refuge. While the world was in chaos, my garden stayed peaceful. It gave me purpose and kept me busy. Gardening has always had a positive impact on my life, and I hope others can find the same kind of calm and happiness in it too.

Any favorite things or tips you would like to share?

My favorite tool is my Felco pruner. The first time I tried pruning with a friend’s Felco, it cut like butter. The price is definitely higher at least double what you’d pay for a regular hardware store pruner but it’s worth every penny. For the best value, though, I’d still recommend Corona pruners. They’re reliable and affordable.

My biggest tip is to connect with locals in your area to share notes about which varieties perform best in your climate. Community makes a big difference. We have an excellent fig community here in WA state. We have a fig & fruit tasting event twice a year: first breba crop in summer and second main crop in fall.

And start with affordable figs. You never want to practice rooting with $10–$20 cuttings. Instead, begin with inexpensive or free ones. Offer to prune a neighbor’s fig tree. They might let you take home the cuttings. That way, everyone benefits, and you learn without worrying about losses.

My top fig variety recommendations for my area in WA state are:

• Desert King

• Smith

• All the LSU Varieties: Hollier, Champagne, Purple

My least favorites are because they are not suitable for my area in-ground:

• Brown Turkey

• Panache

• Others were culled due to similar flavor profiles.

I’m looking forward to trying some new varieties I’ve been waiting on for a while.

The fig bug is definitely here to stay. The only thing that changes is my focus. I’m expanding my collection now, but in time I’ll start narrowing it down to the ones I enjoy most. Eventually, I’d love to reach a point where I’m not testing anymore, just appreciating the collection I’ve built and watching it grow.

Thank you, Kim, that was awesome. Where can people find you at?

I am seattlefigs on:

YouTube

Instagram

Facebook

If you’re interested in figs or fruit-growing, feel free to add me as a friend on Facebook. I love connecting with others who share the same passion.

Kim. Okay, first off, all of that fruit is gorgeous! What a lucky family, you guys are eating well. My mouth is literally salivating over those mulberries and plums. Thank you for taking the time to be with us today, I really appreciate it and look forward to seeing what you post on your socials in the future!

Okay, fig readers, another interview down! Who is next?? Only one way to find out… 👀

Carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen are 93% of your plant. Sugar [glucose] is C₆H₁₂O₆ — carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. Now you know why plants produce sugar. It’s stored nutrition that becomes 93% of their bodies. Brix is a way to measure sugar production. Once it goes to 13% and above she has enough to keep that 93% fully healthy. Natures way. — Gee64/420Magazine

So if you’ve read anything in this newsletter, you may know that my ultimate goal is to have high-Brix plants. This isn't only just for taste reasons, but is also for plant health reasons. High-Brix plants typically have way fewer pest & disease issues which is important to me and I’m sure to you reading this as well.

Whether you make your own potting mix or prefer a generic one from a garden center, one thing that will help to raise Brix is to provide the minerals plants need.

These are what we want to focus on for adding to our potting mixes because they are lacking in every single mix:

• Calcium

• Trace Minerals

Funny enough, marijuana growers were figuring all of this out years before it seemed to hit regular home gardening forums, (and prior to them, grape growers and farmers.) Some of the popular posts were by a person going by the user name “Doc Bud”. He came up with a mineral formulation that he added to all of his potting mixes which greatly increased Brix in his marijuana plants. The following is based on that and other information as well.

Minerals are very important to plants, which should make sense as they are meant to grow in dirt. Can’t get more mineral-based than that! In fact, one of the most important components to plants is rock. There are plants called lithophytes that grow directly out of rocks very happily with no soil at all, just living off of sunlight, rain water, and the minerals they extract from rock. They may grow a little slower than a plant in soil, but they can subsist in rock quite happily. The reason for this is that rocks are full of microminerals. However, most potting mixes on the market are not very mineral-based at all. They are more based on the litter layer in a forest that help to feed soil microbial life but do not contain any of the mineral layer that roots grow in. That layer is very important! This is where chemical agriculture has come in with inputs that make plants look green and they technically grow, but they are by no means providing the comprehensive mineral compounds available in nature. This is by far one of the reasons why we can have a green, growing plant, but also have insect or disease issues.

So, how can we correct this potting mix deficiency? Truthfully, it is hard to replicate all of the advantages of in-ground growing into a pot. But there are a couple of things that can help. One of which is to make our potting mix as mineral as possible. We can take more control over that by making our own potting mixes. Perhaps we don’t have time or ability for that. Well, then at the least, we can add in minerals. That is where this article comes in to help with the following mineral mix that provides the needed calcium and trace minerals from rock or related sources.

Doc Bud’s Mineral Mix:

• 6 parts high calcium Limestone (NOT dolomite! It should be about 90% calcium carbonate) (Slow-release calcium)

• 5 parts Soft Rock Phosphate (Steady release calcium & trace minerals, phosphorus balances the sulfur in gypsum, & the said sulfur helps breaks the bond between the calcium & phosphorus in the soft rock phosphate.)

• 3 parts Gypsum (Fast-release calcium)

• 1.5 parts Azomite (trace minerals)

All of the above are usually in powdered or pelleted form. Note that powdered forms are usually more quickly plant available than pelleted forms. Though, pelleted forms may last longer than powdered forms.

You can either premix it all together well so you have a mineral combo ready to go; or you can add these individually all together into your potting mix and combine them in it directly. Be careful of any dust while mixing, you do not want to breathe it in!

Add two cups per standard-size bag of potting mix (usually around 1.5 to 2 cf.) Or 1/4 cup per 5-gallon pot of potting mix. You can mix it directly into the potting soil or top dress with it and water it in well.

This mineral mix will work best in potting mixes with the fewest amendments as possible. If you have a lot of organic matter in your potting soil, add about 1/2 cup more of the mineral mix to the bag.

This is something that may be handy to have already mixed up and stored in a bucket or other closed container so that it is ready to go. It can then be added whenever you up-pot, re-pot, or an amount sprinkled on at various times throughout the growing season. However, premixing large amounts could generate a lot of powder into the air which isn't desirable for your lungs, layering them into your mixing container will help to limit the amount of mixing needed. I am also including the breakdown below for adding them individually directly into the potting mix if that is preferred.

For your convenience:

If you prefer to mix it in individually, these are the amounts per bag of potting mix broken down by 1/4 cup to make measuring easier using a single cup based tool:

• 1 cup Limestone (not dolomite)

• 3/4 cup SRP

• 1/2 cup Gypsum

• 1/4 cup Azomite

  This makes 2.5 cups of mineral mix.

These are the amounts individually per 5 gallon pot by tablespoon to make measuring easier with one tablespoon based tool:

• 1 ½ Tbs Limestone (not dolomite)

• 1 ¼ Tbs SRP

• 3/4 Tbs (or 2.25 tsp) Gypsum

• Scant 1/2 Tbs (or 1.25 tsp) Azomite

  This makes a tiny more than 1/4 cup.

Substitutes or additions…

⌘ Soft rock phosphate (SRP) (CalPhos) is directly linked to raising Brix. It is an easily assimilated rock-type product. It is becoming harder to find SRP, usually it is sold at places with amendments for farms or at places that specialize in natural growing products. It can be found online as well. SRP actually is an incredible ingredient and is very high in calcium and other trace minerals, in fact, the level of calcium is much higher than the available phosphorus. The phosphorus is very slowly released at low levels, with only 3% being available immediately, so it should be considered more of a calcium product than a phosphorus one. It will also stick in your potting mix and not water out, making it long-lasting. So if you can find it, get it, there is no product quite like it!

Otherwise, fish bone meal or crab meal can stand in as a different type of substitute for the SRP. Note that fish bone meal and crab meal both contain a certain amount of magnesium and nitrogen as well. They are not rock materials, so perhaps try to include other rock-type products, such as basalt, if using these. With these natural phosphorus containing ingredients, you should not need to add any other phosphorus product for your fig trees, especially if using fish amino acids. So, strike out the P in N-P-K, it is well covered with these!

⌘ Oyster shell flour can be a substitute for the high-calcium limestone. Anything that is 90% or greater of calcium carbonate can be used as a substitute for the limestone. I have heard of people using landscape chalk as a cheaper alternative since some products are 100% calcium carbonate. I’m not sure I would recommend that personally, definitely not if colored, but it’s something to consider if it’s the only available option. Another product is aragonite which is a calcium sand and Home Depot sells it at the time of this writing by a brand called Calcean. Finely ground eggshells can also be used, but they do take a long time to break down.

⌘ Basalt is another great one that has a ton of trace minerals. It can stand in for the Azomite or be added separately in its own right. Other volcanic or glacial rock dusts can also be used as a substitute.

⌘ Boron is one trace mineral that is important to Brix and to proper calcium usage. You can add just of pinch of 20 Mule Team borax to your pots, mix it in well at the time of adding calcium to avoid any toxicity. Because this is such a small amount, it needs to be added to each pot individually, otherwise there is no guarantee each plant will get it.

The minerals we left out…

A calcium deficiency locks out cations, which are minerals. High Brix requires proper mineral availability, so calcium is paramount. — Gee64/420Magazine

Mineral availability is linked to magnetism and electricity. Each mineral has its own magnetic pull and strength of charge. Some have more pull than others and can lock onto different minerals blocking them from the plant.

You’ll notice we avoided Epsom salts in our mineral mix above. If magnesium is too high in relationship to calcium, it acts up and binds onto everything making things tight. It does this with nitrogen, it magnetically bonds to it and locks it out from the plant. Calcium is stronger than magnesium in charge and helps to break that bond. When calcium is high enough, it frees up nitrogen and plants green up. Having higher calcium to magnesium also breaks bonds to give the soil greater porosity which allows for more air to be in the soil. This is essential for soil health so the aerobic microbes can breathe. Excess magnesium lowers Brix, so it is something we want to control the application of which is why Epsom salts are not included. Magnesium is also more widely available than some think through water and potting mix ingredients. It is essential, but is only needed in small amounts.

Potassium is usually added through other inputs such as kelp meal or seaweed extract. Molasses is another great one for potassium and trace minerals. Because these items are technically perishable, they are added when needed. Langbeinite, also known as Sul-Po-Mag, is a mineral input that has potassium, sulfur, and magnesium. It is a great input as well, but again, we want to control the release of these minerals, so it too is added as needed. (Note that it is higher in sulfur, so it is better not to use it when gypsum is going strong, as it also has a higher level of sulfur.)

Another thing about potassium is that too much of it can block calcium uptake from the roots. Calcium is best mobilized to a plant through its root system. I want calcium to be about 3 to 4 times higher than potassium in my fig trees. Figs love potassium, but they love calcium more. Potassium can, in effect, replace calcium to form cells. However, the cells are then softer, more rubbery, and weaker. Too much potassium can also cause a plant to burn through its sugars, thereby lowering Brix. High Brix soil is very high in calcium, but pretty low in potassium. There is reportedly greater microbial action and nutrient density in soils with higher levels of calcium, which is one reason for the higher Brix.

Potassium has great mobility through foliar sprays. Because of this, we may wish to favor foliar spraying when using products higher in potassium, such as kelp or molasses, or at the least, not over apply them to the soil. This also tells us to keep compost levels in check because it often is quite high in potassium. A little is good, too much can have a detrimental effect on calcium uptake. So keep an eye out to avoid large amounts of these ingredients when choosing a potting mix.

Calcium is the electrical current in our mix to elicit life and growth. None of the other cations work well if calcium is off. So all of the others do play their role but in lesser amounts which is why they are not here in this mix. This is especially so since potting mixes are often already high in them.

Making everything plant available…

Any dry minerals like these really need microbes to make them plant available. So adding any one of the ferments we’ve mentioned in this newsletter, such as FPJ or JLF, EM-1 which you can purchase on various sites, JADAM microbial solution (JMS), Lactic Acid Bacterial Serum (LABS), or a mycorrhizal product is an awesome idea to set your plant up for success. Mycorrhizal fungi is especially important to trees for nutrient uptake, so definitely consider adding it. It can take a couple of weeks for the microbes to kick in with the minerals, so you may want to premix everything, let it hang out for a week or two, and then use it for your plants.

Also, remember that amino acids can increase the uptake of minerals. So using a fish hydrolysate product or fish amino acids throughout the growing season can be very beneficial.

Fulvic or humic acids also can help to make minerals plant available. It is a good idea to use fulvic acid when using high-calcium limestone. Peat based mixes already will contain a certain amount of humic substances such as fulvic acid. We can also add some as an amendment if we feel a need for it or if using something without peat.

Calcium can be very mobile in water and rinses out easily because it is a heavy mineral— it wants to go down. So this isn't a product to put in the bottom of your hole at just the root zone area. That is too low and the calcium will only go down further with each watering until it goes out the pot drainage holes. Mix it throughout the potting mix and then top dress with it as needed. Mix it in enough so that it doesn’t clump.

This can also be added to rooting mixes to give our cuttings the best start possible. So don't forget that application as well! It does contain a certain amount of phosphorus which helps with root growth. (If you have a cutting that did not root and you don’t want the minerals to go to waste, you can use that mix on your other plants.)

And there you go… now you have a mineralized mix to get you started on the path to high-Brix growing! I can hear the satisfied sighs all around, including from me. 😜

I hope this gives you an easy way to increase your plants' mineral intake! Here is to strong, healthy plants for everyone!

Hello ladies and gents! We are continuing our series of interviews with fig growers from around the world. Bringing you different perspectives and growing practices from my own so you can get a real taste of the fig life. I’m very honored to introduce you to Khaled Hassan. He is one of the larger collectors I know of with a passion for figs that has echoed my own. And with that, here is Khaled —

But first, to set the tone, please press play…

Location: Orange County, California. Zone 10A

It's nice to meet you all. I am Khaled, and I love growing tasty fruits. I married my high school sweetheart, who generously indulges me in my plant habit. We have 7 children, are very active in our local community, and manage just about 2,000 different plants. I am a dermatologist by trade, but we have a small private family farm and nursery.

We are big hockey fans, which occupies a lot of our free time (imagine running around after so many hockey players). I am a big reader, although as plants have taken up more and more of my free time, I have shifted to audiobooks. It seems like every year I pick up a new hobby or interest. I started collecting books and going to book signings in 2008. I picked up on plants in 2010. More recently, I taught myself irrigation, niche coffee (mainly espresso), pizza, and bread baking, and this past year, I took up learning Mandarin. I don’t know what my next project will be, but I have been thinking about either a podcast, social media presence, or writing a book, either fiction or non-fiction.

What got you into growing figs?

The first time I encountered the wonderful diversity of fruits was in the first week of college when I saw an heirloom tomato on display from one of the farm clubs. I remember being absolutely delighted (as I loved all things tomato). Fast forward a few years, and I found myself taking my kids out to the strawberry and blueberry fields in North Carolina when I was in graduate school. When we had our own place, my wife bought me a tomato plant. I kept forgetting to water it though. I’d get home tired, and late, and would walk right by the plant, forgetting to water it. It slowly dried up and died. After a wet winter, the sad little tomato plant sent out a small green shoot. All of a sudden, I had a second chance. Now I started to pay attention to the plant. When it put out its first flower, I bought another tomato plant for pollination. Then I learned I could pollinate tomatoes with a vibrating toothbrush (I soon learned that wind often releases the pollen, so no special attention is needed).

My curiosity pushed me to buy other plants. I bought strawberries, eggplant, and herbs. One day at Home Depot, I saw an avocado tree and wanted to buy one. I quickly did an internet search and read that ideally I should have 2 types of avocados, an A and a B type. When talking with an attendant, I learned about multi-grafted trees. They didn’t have multi-grafted avocados, but they did have multi-grafted citrus. That day, I left with 2 different avocado trees and my multi-grafted citrus tree. That day, my mind was overloaded with plant information, and the seed for discovering different cultivars and grafting took hold in my mind.

Over the next few years, I collected some 30+ plants. We lived in a typical Irvine home – essentially no backyard, almost exactly like the homes featured in the TV show “Arrested Development”, which pokes fun at the typical Irvine community setup. Everything I had was in pots. When we moved into a larger place, I started to expand my interests. I bought different types of stone fruit, mangos, citrus, and persimmon. By the time we moved into our current place, I had some 130 potted trees. My wife usually hand-watered all of them – God bless her for her dedication and patience in putting up with me.

As we set about planning the layout of our trees at our forever home and orchard, I realized I wanted some fig plants. I planned for 3 fig trees. I did a few days of reading about figs, settled on 5 varieties, and then pre-ordered some plants from a website online. I paid about $200 for the trees. 6 months later, the trees were never delivered, and the guy had disappeared. I went online trying to find out about this fig scammer and came across the Ourfigs forum. Apparently, this was a popular way to find the forum and learn more about figs. Then I discovered figBid and plant sales. That winter I rooted about 30 varieties. I couldn’t really choose between the varieties, so instead of planting 3 trees, I planted all 30.

I was surprised at how fast the trees grew. We planted them in April of 2017. That November, each tree was taller than I was and they had several fruits on them. My favorite that year was I-258 and Violette de Bordeaux (VdB). I had the last fruit in November of that year, and after having that last VdB, I remember thinking to myself that growing figs was pretty easy. By contrast, I had been messing around with avocados for years with hardly any fruit to show for my effort. Figs just seemed to grow on autopilot, grew fast, fruited easily, had no real disease issues, and gave tasty fruit in a short period of time. Moreover, it gave me something to do in the wintertime when there wasn’t much else for me to do with the plants.

Along the way, I made some good fig friends. Eric started posting on Ourfigs around the same time I did, and we teamed up on a couple of fig searches – we seemed to both be on the hunt for top-tier figs. My first fig buddy – everybody needs a fig buddy, someone you split everything with and keep each other going through the tough times, someone who eggs you on and keeps you motivated, someone who grows the figs slightly differently from you and who can offer a different perspective – that fig buddy was Chris. Chris had a lot of knowledge and insight and pointed me in the direction of some of the large growers. I still talk with Chris every so often, but he is not as interested in figs at this time. I have subsequently made a handful of fig buddies, many of whom have become close friends.

My first fig disaster came in February of 2019. My 6^th child had just been born, and I had rooted some 200 different plants. I tried figpops – they were the new thing back then, and rooting was so easy. I would see roots and giant leaves within 1-2 weeks instead of the usual 3-6 weeks with garage rooting under lights. I was so thrilled by what I saw that I kept buying more and more. I just wanted to taste everything. When my daughter was born, I realized I needed to start moving the fig pops out of my bedroom. I put them all outside. I don’t remember how I did it the first years, but transition shock was never really an issue. In 2019 though, I killed almost everything.

Out of 200 trees that I potted up and moved outside, about 10 survived. I was in denial for the first few days, but I started to read up about what I was seeing and realized that these plants were dying. I panicked. I wasn’t sure what to do. Some of the plants I put in the shade. They kept dying. Some I removed from pots and tried to put back in figpops. Too late. The roots were dying on those. For some others, I cut off the mid-sections that still seemed alive and I practiced grafting. I didn’t have much experience with grafting, but one night I just went around and randomly cut wedges into my in-ground trees and grafted. Not too precise, the light wasn’t great, and I really had no experience with grafting, but surprisingly I was successful in just about all my grafts: Madeira Island Black, Bordissot Negra Rimada, Martinenca Rimada, Tres Num Prato, and Black Madeira UCD.

This experience saved my 2019 fig season – at least my fig morale – and it inspired me to continue to learn how to graft. Chris introduced me to some of the larger growers, and soon I was buying by the 100s. I really enjoyed getting to know the different varieties. Each plant seemed to have a personality in the way it grew and how it put out figs compared to its neighbors. Like I said, it gave me something to do in winter when there wasn’t much else to do.

My fig orchard grew to nearly 1000 different varieties pretty fast. Then I did a cutting sale. It was more of a father-son thing as I was hoping to make it a family or group project with my older boys. One son really got into it. He was making lists, learned how to read the fig map, responded to messages, and made the tallies. I even let him set prices on some of the trees. The next year, the older boys were away at school, and my wife and I did the sale on our own. It was a bigger sale, with even more varieties, but the energy and excitement weren’t the same without the kids being engaged. It became more of a chore and a job than a fun project. I tried motivating myself to do it in 2023-24 but then realized that I don’t grow plants for other people but rather for myself and my family. In terms of the orchard and farm, it was more practical to focus on just a few cultivars and sell cuttings and trees from just a few very special, unique, and rare varieties. This saved me a lot of time.

In the meantime, my interest in figs has really run the gamut. For the past few years, my fig buddy and I have been chasing down collections. The Pons collection and FDM collections are partially published, but one can find other published fig collections (in other languages). There are many fig collectors here in the States who don’t really talk about their collections, and getting to know them and their stories and the stories behind their collections has been really rewarding. Some of them have been kind enough to trust me to share their cuttings with me, and so for the past 2+ years, my focus has really been on these harder-to-find figs that I can’t really talk about much because they were given to me in confidence or I was asked not to sell or share them publicly, etc.

Along the way, I developed an allergy to fig leaves. It is a huge headache. I get itchy just walking near them with short sleeves, so in the summer I need to wear a hat, gloves, long-sleeves, and pants just so that I don’t scratch my skin off. Thankfully, I am not allergic to the fruit. My family loves the fruit, which is my ultimate reward. That is my fig story up until now.

That is quite a start! How are you keeping up with so many trees?

I currently have about 1700-1800 trees. I now grow them in 3x3 and 4x4 treepots for space. The trees from the past 3 years have to be kept small by design. I am running out of space and am looking for affordable acreage.

The original trees are all-ground, the second batch of trees are in large 15-25 gallon pots, and the 3^rd wave, which is when I really expanded my collection, are all in 5-gallon pots, which I continued for the next few years. The figs from the last 3 years are in 3x3 and 4x4 treepots. I also have several varieties grafted onto either the in-ground trees or the trees in 5g pots and larger.

There’s no way we can hand water everything. The new starts and newly up-potted figs are hand-watered, but by the end of the season, they are plugged into the irrigation system.

The figs otherwise get nothing special. My goal is to get the figs up-potted by April/early May so that they can be on auto-pilot for the rest of the season, (and subsequent years,) so that I can turn my attention to the other trees during late spring, summer, and fall. I do have a fertigation tank connected to my irrigation system.

I like to root figs in either avocado/citrus mix or liner mix. I try not to mix the 2 different soil types during any given growing season so that the timing for watering is roughly the same. I have really gravitated towards the avocado/citrus mix and recently Gary’s Top Pot soil (not the acidic one – that one roots really fast but retains a lot of water). I like the mix to drain fast. I can water once a week in winter without having to really worry, and on a heat mat, I water twice a week. I used to use rooting hormone. I have hardly used it this year for some 200-250 cuttings.

I usually, but not always, scrub my cuttings depending on how they look. I do like to cut them into 3-4 inch segments, usually 2 or 3 nodes at a time. This lets me also get a glimpse of the cut wood to see how healthy the interior of the cutting is. If it’s really precious, I graft a piece of it or all of it. If it’s thick, I will do a banana graft literally 1 node at a time, but more recently I have started to favor Z grafts. They’re fast and effective. I have gotten to the point where I can do banana grafts relatively quickly as well. If it’s thin, then my go-to graft is a side graft.

I personally prefer to root for a few reasons. Firstly, because I grow the figs in large batches, rooting is just a quick and efficient way for me to do things. I clean, wrap, and label within a day or so. Then I stick them in cups, mugs, or pans of water depending on how many cuttings are in that batch. They can last for a while. I usually change the water 1-2 times weekly until I’m ready to root them, or until it looks like they have roots or swollen lenticels. Basically, the cuttings are getting primed until I have the time to root them all.

Secondly, when I root cuttings, I can then properly map out where I end up putting the plants when they are ultimately potted. That way, if I lose the label or the label gets shrugged off by the growing tree, I can still orient myself and know what it is.

When I root, I have to decide if I want to root outside in small treepots or on a heat mat under lights. If I root indoors, on a heat mat, under lights, I usually see roots between weeks 3 and 4 (using see-through plastic cups). The plants have filled their cups with roots by week 6 and are ready for up-potting by then. I transition the plants slowly 10-15 minutes of morning light the first 3 days, then I do it 20-25 minutes twice a day for the next few days, then 30-35 minutes twice a day. Once the plants handle over an hour of light twice a day, I have to decide if I slowly increase to 2 hours twice a day or leave them to handle the entire day. Our weather by this time – usually March and April – is typically overcast, so these cooler temperatures lend themselves to this outdoor transition.

If I choose an even more hands-off approach, I just root directly into 3x3 treepots, package 15-35 of them in milk crates (depending on their size), and leave them outside. They root a little more slowly, the first sets of leaves are small, but the resulting plants are hardy, don’t need to acclimate to the sun, and really don’t need much fussing (unless there is frost, snow, or hail). Finally, regardless of my rooting approach, I up-pot again sometime in May and then position the pot in its final location. Fruiting takes 1-3 years 😊

I use a dry, fast-draining mix for rooting and growing. It lets me water regularly with minimal risk of root rot. The downside is that the mix doesn’t retain much water, so the plants are more prone to drying out, especially during the high summer heat.

With the arrival of the black fig fly, I have had to spray some sort of pesticide for the past 3 years. It works really well, and I only have to spray 3-4 times in the spring-early summer. The spraying has made a big difference for us.

What are your top tips for growing figs?

1. Get a feel for good quality wood. I can usually tell by looking and feeling the wood if it will take or root or rot. You should get to know how good wood feels and how to evaluate it.

2. Learn how to root and graft single-node and 2-node cuttings. In fact, when I get a piece of wood, one of the first things I do is decide how many pieces I will chop it into. Someone once asked me why I sold some cuttings for high prices. My response was that a 10-node cutting is 6-10 trees in my hands, so I value it accordingly.

3. Be proactive and experiment. Experiment with single-node grafts and cuttings. Experiment with different graft techniques and rooting regimens/recipes.

4. Be patient with your trees. The fruit tastes better over time as the trees mature. Also, experiment with when and how to pick them. Does one variety taste better when it droops, when it cracks, when it swells? It takes time to sort out what works for you.

5. Pest control. Gophers killed one of my large trees. The black fig fly has also spoiled some of my figs.

6. Know your figs. I guess this should really be know the collector’s preferences. I don’t know them personally, but from what I can taste of the figs they tout, Dato prefers really sweet figs, Pons collects native heirloom figs, and Thierry likes photogenic figs. This way, you don’t embark on a hunt for something with unrealistic expectations.

Those are some good tips! What are your biggest joys and disappointments in growing figs?

Sense of accomplishment – I really do enjoy seeing roots develop and leaves emerge.

Sense of order – managing so many trees and unique varieties forces me to re-think how I organize things. I have tried many different smaller projects to this end, and many of them aren’t necessarily cohesive, but they keep me occupied and mentally engaged.

Sense of obligation – Many varieties that I have acquired more recently over the past few years have been shared with only a handful of people. I take the trust given to me seriously and view my efforts to grow, trial, and document these figs as a trust.

Shared joy – while my family may not feel all the things I feel with respect to the plants, they do share bits and pieces of my enthusiasm. At the very least, they enjoy the fruit, and that’s one thing that keeps me going.

Even though the data tells me to trust my process of rooting, sometimes I still feel anxious around weeks 3-4 if I don’t see roots, or when roots stall. Transitioning can also bring me some anxiety as I will position the plants in morning light and then call my wife and ask her to move them in or cover them with a pop-up. I know I am relying entirely on her and her schedule, and I don’t want to overburden her with my plant schedule. Part of the process is learning to let go. This past year, my first batch of transitioned plants for the most part all lost their leaves despite slowly transitioning them over 3 weeks. The main growth terminals survived, so the plants should bounce back. Surprisingly, the subsequent 2 batches were transitioned rapidly over the course of 1 week as we kind of forgot to move them in on time, and those plants are doing just fine. Go figure.

Insect pests are very frustrating for me. The black fig fly is frustrating but I have been able to control them by spraying pesticides every 3-4 weeks from April to early June. This can supposedly inhibit caprification, but the figs still taste good. I don’t spray when the figs approach maturity, but at that point, the usual fruit flies and small beetles can infest the ripening fruit and it’s a race to see who will get the ripening fruit first.

Lastly, every year I lose some plants, usually 3-4. I lost my Leo Poldo Abruzzo 3 years ago. That was hard because it was so difficult for me to obtain, and the friend who shared it with me subsequently got rid of his tree as he was downsizing. Every year I also seem to have some major issue with irrigation, typically during the summer. The high heat and heavy water demands seem to expose the flaws in my system. All it takes is 1 bad day to take its toll.

It requires constant attention.

How have you grown as a person while growing figs?

Working with plants has taught me to be patient. Plants, like avocados, take a few years to reach production size, and the fruit can take 12-18 months to mature. Earlier in my plant career, I may have been impatient and cut or pruned plants at a small size or forced them to fruit early when small thereby impairing their growth.

I have also learned how to be more diligent. Because of how busy I am, I find myself organizing my tasks and doing them when I have set aside enough time for them. I have learned though that when the plants need something, they may need it immediately and not when I have time for them. For my mangoes, this means I need to spray fungicide every couple of weeks in the late winter and spring. For figs, I have to spray for the black fig fly in the late spring and early summer. For avocados, I have to be on the lookout for heat waves and protect exposed bark accordingly. If I skip the task or delay it, I may lose the entire crop or in the worst-case scenario, lose a couple of growing seasons from dieback and disease. Remember, I used to grow things in pots without an irrigation system. In the high heat of summer, more than 100 plants would need to be watered sometimes more than once a day. If we skipped this task or were away on vacation, the plants would burn and die back. 1 bad day, 1 lost year.

Lastly, the plant life has given me a creative and experimental outlet. I get to continually read and learn something new, then put it into practice. I tinker all of the time. My wife likes to say it is a healthier activity than gambling or drinking, and along the way, I’ve made some great friends and had some memorable experiences.

This seems to change yearly. As I try more and more figs, I find myself appreciating more than just the first taste. I have come to appreciate different pulp textures, skin thickness and chewiness, juiciness vs sweetness. Some figs have a refreshing taste to them while others make me feel satisfyingly full. I tried one variety this past year that was so sweet, like really ripe dates, but had an almost dry internal texture like a dried fig despite being picked dead ripe. It was truly very different.

What are your favorite and least favorite varieties?

Some tried and true favorites: Bordissot Blanca-Negra, Vasilika Sika, White Algiers, Yolo Bypass, UCD Golden Riverside, TD Yellow Crinkle, San Francois, Figo Roxo, Raspberry Latte, Coll de Dama Mutante Bicolor, and Joualle Rouge. There are several others but these ones produce a lot of very tasty figs.

Some tasty ones that received rave reviews in our household over the past few years:

• Crnika Palestinian 3

• NV7

• TNT

• De Sant Antoni de Jeuny

• Verte Pulpe Rouge

• Some of the other NV varieties

• Joualle Noire

I haven’t actually gotten rid of [the least favorites]. I just graft over them or leave them be. Some of them have gotten better over time.

Croisic – acceptable but not really worth the space.

Kadota – sometimes it is great, large, sweet, juicy, and refreshing. Other times it is bland. It seems to be inconsistent, and there are more consistent figs with similar taste profiles that are more intense in flavor.

What are you looking forward to most this next season?

My biggest efforts over the past 3 years are all related to private collections. There are some amazing fig collections out there. Some like Mario’s are becoming more popular while others remain under wraps. When I first started, I was keen to share everything and publicize them. This approach however scares away people with special items and collections. I get it. Some people have discovered something special and meaningful for them and their families. It is their special secret, and they want to keep it that way. Think about Fracazzano Multicolor and how the individual who posted photos talked about how he wants to keep enjoying it in relative obscurity. These past few years, I’ve focused a lot more on cultivating relationships and working on not publicizing everything, and this year I expect to get a chance to try fruit from some of the trees that hold special meaning to some fig folks and were shared with me. Some I can’t really talk about, but some others that I am excited about are:

-Roja del Rey Sancho: The story goes that this red fig was the Spanish King Sancho’s favorite fig. The reports that I’ve heard so far tout it as something special.

-There are a few other special figs related to Spanish royalty. I am trying to figure out how many of these royal figs are out there.

-Palestinian 3: I received this variety a few years ago as part of a giveaway on Ourfigs. The originator doesn’t know the original name of the fig, but he did subsequently identify Palestinian 1 and 2. I posted about it, but nobody seems to recall it, and the originator told me he thought it was a Smyrna and so didn’t send it to anyone else. I am not convinced it is a Smyrna and sent some cuttings to people in the northeast. This one was outstanding this past year. It stopped us in its tracks. Medium-sized, dense, full-bodied, and high in flavor. Everyone in the house loved it, and the good news is that the tree has many fruiting branches, so this should be a great year for it.

-All the different variations of Verdal, Verdolino, Verdino, Verdone, Verte, and Verde. This seems to be a generic term for green fig. I am hoping to better document the differences between these (i.e., Verdal Ibiza, Verdal, Verdolino, Verdolino del Lago de Garda, Verdino, Verdino del Mord, etc).

-Montjuic: This was a local find by a fruit hunter on Ourfigs. I am pretty sure he hasn’t published anything about it yet, so stay tuned.

-NV figs: I find these figs a really fun endeavor because they are not heirloom figs. They were discovered amongst a broad collection of figs. They don’t really have a history, and so we get to be the first group to really discuss their flavor profiles. For example, the first NV7 fig I ever tasted had a coconut aftertaste. I had never experienced that flavor profile before, and actually, I haven’t experienced it again since 😊 Looking back, I think the fig had that flavor at an early stage of ripening, and perhaps that specific flavor is lost as the fig matures and fully ripens. The tree itself also makes different types of figs – some are flask-shaped (the brebas), and the main crop figs can be both round as well as oblong. It’s fun for me and my wife to sit down and think about these different factors and work them out on our own time. Some other fig folks have talked about similar experiences – picking the figs at specific stages for desired flavor profiles.

Another like that is TD Yellow Crinkle. The first one I ever picked was a little premature mainly because a bird pecked at it as it was swelling. I didn’t want to lose the fig as there were only 2 on the branch, so I bit the bullet and ate the edible parts. It tasted great with a raspberry-type flavor. In subsequent years, I protected the figs and allowed them to fully ripen. Turns out, TDYC is a really sweet fig. It turns into a syrupy mess when it ripens, and is so sweet that any other flavor is tuned out.

-Speaking of TD Yellow Crinkle, the TD in the name stands for Tayyip Demir. It turns out he has some unique figs that he is excited about, and I hope to find and trial them. So far, I have read about a black Damir fig and a brown Damir fig.

-Similarly, I am a big fan of Vasilika Sika. I believe mine is the VS strain. Based on this single fig tree, I have been pursuing as many different Greek figs as possible. Many of the trees from this endeavor are too small still, but I am looking forward to watching them grow. It gives me something to look forward to for next year. I bought all the Greek heritage figs from Harvey and Will, and I have visited several Greek cultural sites locally and while traveling. I’ve been to Greek festivals and Greek churches. There is a large Greek community here locally, and I have obtained some heirloom varieties and named varieties from some neighbors. Speaking of churches, places of worship are great places to find unique figs and pomegranates. Some of my most flavorful finds come from the trees at Muslim mosques.

-Montfavet NOT: This came to me as Montfavet. I fruited it, and it was really unique: mid-sized fig, beautiful striations and color, unique cherry-berry taste with a pulp that was full-bodied and slightly well-formed and solid (not jammy but instead kind of like how citrus pulp is not homogeneous). Comparing it to the published photos of Montfavet, this is certainly not the true Montfavet. The person who gave it to me doesn’t know what it is either. This in and of itself was a funny exchange. He sent me a message about 6 months ago asking me for a cutting of Montfavet. I responded with something along the lines of: “What do you mean you don’t have Montfavet? My tree came from you! And by the way, I am happy to send you a cutting of what I have – it is not Montfavet, but I really liked it.”

-Gimonetta: I have been after this one for a while. I fruited it last year but will have more fruit to sample this year.

-Sao Joao Preto: Like Gimonetta, I tried a few last year and will have more to try this year. This one was a very, very, very sweet fig.

-We have put together a collection of photographs that we hope to publish on a daily basis, something along the lines of “Fruit of the Day” or “Fig of the Day.” We have so many pictures spread across a few different hard drives and cloud servers though that organizing them has become its own onerous burden. I think we have organized enough of them that we can start posting and publishing them. We were also thinking of self-publishing a coffee-table book with pictures and descriptions. The book may be a costly endeavor but it is fun to think about.

That sounds very cool and exciting! Do you think you will ever stop growing figs?

Not really stop growing them, but I think I am getting to the point where I will start getting rid of trees or grafting them to keep a variety and then toss the tree to make space. Or buy some more land somewhere.

I have, however, found my attention wandering to other plants. For the last 2 years, I have focused a lot more on my mangos, and this year I will be paying more attention to my stone fruit, Asian pears, apples, and anonas. I think it is healthy to rotate interests. It keeps things fun and exciting.

Lastly, where can people find you?

We started a YouTube account when Covid first started – Viral Gardening. We have several videos that we never published though. We keep making videos but just haven’t gone back for editing. We may just go ahead and publish them.

Thank you, Khaled, for that amazing interview! I can see that growing has been a family endeavor and it’s partly that closeness which adds joy to it. I love that tip about knowing the collector, it gives some great insight for the type of varieties they carry. And I can’t wait to hear more about Roja del Rey Sancho, it sounds like a really cool variety. Hoping many tasty figs, mangos, and more for you and your family in all seasons!

Some cuttings, you can do all the wrong things and they will still somehow root and grow into a tree. The resiliency! Other cuttings, you do just a little thing off and it’s over, kaput, dead in the water. With fig cuttings, it doesn't matter until it matters. So what are some of these things that can matter? Well, I can only break it down from my personal experience, so here it goes…

Once you have cut a limb off of a tree, the breakdown process starts. It no longer has its lifeline and its cells are now starting to die off without ongoing replacement. To stop this, we need to slow this process down or we need to get it to form roots as soon as it can so it can regulate itself and have flow again. Without this, it will eventually turn into a moldy, desiccated stick.

It is important to understand that the presence of microbes is not causing the rot. Rot happens because of dying tissue, the tissue is no longer viable and then certain microbes come in to do their nature-given role of breaking down the dead tissue. So to avoid rot, we want to do things that prevent tissue damage and death and contribute to life instead.

These are common things that can cause harm to plant tissues:

• 🌡️ Temperature extremes. This can happen before the cutting has even been taken from the tree with frosts and freezes, it can happen in shipping, and it can happen in storage. Sometimes it happens under grow lights that are too hot and close, and sometimes it happens from heating mats under the cuttings. Cuttings can effectively be steamed by a heat mat that is not being regulated enough or that doesn’t have a barrier between it and the bottom of the pot. Another overlooked one is the temperature of the water used to wash cuttings, hot water is not needed. Just know that freezing the cutting will damage it, and heating the cutting too much will also damage it.

• 🧼 Washing and disinfecting cuttings. Some wash and disinfect cuttings before planting them. However, this can remove essential microbes that promote root growth. Research by Dr. James F. White and others shows that plant roots absorbing and expelling microbes is directly linked to root hair elongation and growth. These bacteria are thought to excrete hormones inside of the roots that stimulate their growth. Seeds that have been treated with antibiotics or sanitized with 50/50 bleach & water solutions do not grow well because they need the built-in microbes to function, particularly with roots. Cuttings also need microbes to initiate and grow roots.

  

  Here is a video with it explained in more depth. I linked it to start where he is directly speaking about root hair elongation at 27:18 which he talks about for about 8 minutes up to the start of the Q&A, but the entire presentation is very good and has tidbits throughout. So please feel free to start it from the beginning if you like. (I recommend changing the playback speed if it’s too slow for you, use the gear icon in the video and click on “Playback Speed” to do that.) ↓↓↓

  (There are a lot of YouTube videos with presentations by Dr. James White that contain more details on how microbes relate to plant nutrition and health. I highly recommend them and have found them fascinating! He also has a number of published papers that you can find on Research Gate.)

  Plants are filled with microbes, so to kill off fungi or bacteria with disinfectant is essentially killing off a part of the plant itself. Because molds and other microbes are ubiquitous in our environment, let alone in the soil itself that the cutting is going into, disinfecting will not prevent mold from forming on something that is decomposing. You’re eliminating the plant’s natural microbes and allowing whatever is present in the environment to settle on it, such as wild yeasts in the air, whatever is on your hands or counters, or bacteria from foods in the refrigerator if stored. The most that can be gained is removing a contaminant on the surface that doesn’t belong there which may mold and this can be done with a simple washing.

  The speed of microbial colonization on the root system is very important to create resistance to root diseases according to John Kempf. When this beneficial microbiome is not carried through on the cutting or in the rooting mix, the newly rooted plant now needs to recruit microbes from the soil to colonize the root surface and develop a healthy microbiome. This process takes time and may require the contribution of more sugar and energy through the root system from root exudates, depleting the cutting. The more sanitized the system, the more time this takes.

  [Picture a plant putting its sugars into the rooting mix through its brand new tender roots and then the proper microbes are not there to eat it and help the plant. What is going to happen to the sugary goo the roots are sitting in, especially if our rooting mix is not aerated enough?

  Sugar + little air + wild yeasts from the environment = ethanol or alcohol = root death]

  During this window, there is an opportunity for disease development in plant tissues when the root system is not immediately colonized by disease-suppressive microorganisms. Fungicide treatments amplify this susceptibility by removing beneficial microbes.

  Plants have a waxy cuticle layer that serves as a protection against environmental stressors and regulates transpiration. Some may use harsh disinfectants or detergents which damages this tissue making it more permeable. Others may scrub the cutting too harshly which can leave scratches in the surface. Even common things like bleach or hydrogen peroxide can cause a certain amount of breakdown of cellular structure and can interfere with the plant’s ability to absorb nutrients when used in excess. Bleach itself breaks down into a salt which is harmful to plant material. These also harm any exposed soil microorganisms, disrupting the important balance that stops rot.

• 🧪 Rooting hormone. Too heavy of a dosage can dehydrate or burn the plant's stems leaving it open to rot and decay. Overuse of rooting hormone can lead to excessive root growth, which can cause the plant to become unstable or even die. What the hormone is actually doing is suppressing the plant's ability to differentiate between root, stem and leaf cells. When exposed to auxin, the plant's cells essentially "forget" they're able to make a variety of different types of cells, and just start replicating root cells, which are the most basic type. Figs typically do not require rooting hormone at all. However, if you are going to use it, use a very low dilution to avoid damaging the cutting.

  It should be noted as well that some brands of rooting hormone contain fungicides or other ingredients that could disrupt the microbiome both on the cutting and in the rooting mix.

• 💨 Oxygen starvation. This is one of the most common causes of cutting death. Cuttings and roots need air to survive. Air is needed for plant respiration, which is essential for growth and nutrient uptake. If the rooting medium used is too fine and dense, it can cause asphyxiation because any tiny air gaps are taken up with water engorged material which is unable to dry out fast enough to allow for air to come back. ProMix is commonly recommended for rooting cuttings by some growers. However, its purpose is for starting vegetable seeds, not cuttings. As such, it is very fine and not aerated enough for rooting cuttings. It is meant to hold more water to stimulate seed germination. So for cuttings which do not require that amount of water retention, more perlite or pumice needs to be added to create enough air pockets so that watering is not an issue. Having good air and water flow is essential to cutting health and contributes to good microbial growth as well.

  

A little disclaimer: With all of the above said, I want to be clear that I am not saying you can’t grow a cutting doing any of these things — a lot of people do. I’m sure some reading this are thinking, I do that and I don’t have any problems. I know some who disinfect the heck out of their cuttings and still get a plant out of them. And that’s okay, in fact, it is great, I’m glad you have success!

What I am saying though is that a lot of people also have problems because of doing these things. When people have rotted cuttings, usually it can be linked directly to one or more of these practices. Just because it can work in spite of doing it, that doesn't make it best practice. These can create unnecessary learning curves and require a person to adapt with workarounds, such as weighing pots and using syringes to water, when in reality it is so much simpler.

The point is to help people see it is not black and white and there are other aspects to consider especially if you have a particular growing ethos, ahem *organic and natural right here in the house*, that you want to stick with. Use the appropriate things from the start and you’re golden.

What can we do instead?

It’s simple: Use a properly aerated rooting mix and regulate moisture to ensure humidity around the cutting according to the climate of your area. That is pretty much all that is needed…

But if your punctilious nature is crying out and you would like more details to correspond to the above, well see below ↓ just for you.

1. Choose cuttings that are as lignified (hardwood) and freshly cut as possible. This helps because the cutting surface is less tender and vulnerable. The fresher a cutting is, the more vitality it should have and typically has increased chance of rooting. Have a general awareness of the weather conditions of the location you are buying from. Is it late enough in the season for dormancy there? Are they cutting this year’s growth that may not be lignified yet? Remember, cuttings start at the top of a branch with newest growth and work down to older wood. So you are likely to get young branches no matter who you buy from. In fact, the majority I see sold are semi-lignified and these can work just fine. Timing is more about dormancy for storage needs and allowing as much time as possible for lignification without cold damage, as many sellers are from back east.

2. Root them as soon as possible. ⏳ If storing in the fridge to tide them over, make sure they are put in a plastic bag with a paper towel to absorb any condensation and keep them away from the sides or any known cold spots. Make sure your refrigerator is in the normal range of 35-38°F. Below 35°F for prolonged periods can cause damage. Note that green cuttings (softwood) and semi-lignified cuttings do not store as well.

   According to Advances in Fig Research and Sustainable Production, some researchers store cuttings this way: “Cuttings are tied in bundles of approximately 50, each wrapped with a damp cloth or folded in a slightly moist sand or perlite medium to preserve their moisture content. The bundles are then placed in plastic cases and stored in cold storage (4°C [or 39°F]) at 80–85% relative humidity until planting. Under these conditions, cuttings can be stored for 1–2 months.”

3. Try not to buy cuttings when outside temperatures are more extreme. Cuttings can cook in a hot mailbox in summer 🥵 or freeze in winter. 🥶

4. If the ambient room temperature is warm enough, heat mats are not needed. If using a heat mat, make sure any temperature probes are measuring at the point of contact at the base of the pot to ensure it doesn’t get too hot. Remember, water conducts heat so wet rooting mixes may get warmer than the outside of the pot and you want that probe right in there. Place a towel or other barrier between the heat mat and the pot to help buffer the heat. Figs root best between 72-78°F, though can root fine when ambient temperatures are at 65° or above or 85° and below. It will take longer to get going below 72°, which can increase chance of desiccation or rot, and you will have more risk of rot when you’re getting over 79° with a heat mat.

5. Cleaning your cuttings is a choice, not a requirement. If choosing to clean your cuttings, gently wipe them with something soft, use cool water, and a mild soap. Recognize that microbes 🦠 are essential to plants and that disinfecting or aggressive cleaning can cause more harm than good. I personally do not clean my cuttings at all unless they have something obvious on them. Using microbial inoculants instead of disinfectants can help to produce a much larger root system while preventing root rot.

   The only time I could see where disinfectant might be useful is if you are shipping cuttings and expecting a long transit, or storing cuttings for a length of time. Both involve enclosed moist environments that could contribute to mold growth. But doing this also could impact rooting success later. Many hobbiest sellers do not disinfect their cuttings and they are received just fine in most cases. If this is used, I would choose something very mild and would not soak them in it.

   Last year, I received some cuttings that I forgot about. I opened the package over a month later and they were all moldy. However, the cuttings themselves seemed intact, the bark wasn’t slipping off and they weren’t soft yet. So I soaked them for a few days in water with a fig root ferment I had previously made. Not only did all of the mold go away, but they all rooted successfully and quickly. No disinfecting was required. This agrees with the research showing that more microbes are needed for controlling fungal issues, not less.

6. Keep in mind that figs root very well without rooting hormone. I never use it myself and have sufficient success. If you’re just really feeling a boost is needed though, try using seaweed extract which naturally promotes growth and is a root stimulant. Ferments can also be made using thicker fig tree roots that boost rooting speed. Either of these can be used at a high dilution in a pre-soak.

   ⚛️ If you must use rooting hormone because you are just a chemical fiend, fig researchers have found that the best results were observed with 2500 ppm IBA + 2500 ppm NAA or 1000 ppm IBA + 1000 ppm NAA combinations over other concentrations, according to Advances in Fig Research and Sustainable Production. Other researchers had success with 1000 ppm IBA over other concentrations as well. Success was measured by dry weight of growth within a certain period of time. Results were mixed as for whether it improved rooting performance overall.

   It seems as though liquid hormones are less risky than powdered or gel hormones based on what other growers have said. I know when I experimented with powdered hormone, I had a lot of rot. So go with liquid if this is your choice.

7. Use proper rooting mixes for tree cuttings that allow for sufficient air-water-soil composition. Researchers have found that a 1:1 combination of peat and perlite was most effective for rooting fig cuttings. (Advances in Fig Research and Sustainable Production.) It really pleased me to read this because it agrees with what I found myself independently and have recommended. (🎯 Hey hey, nothing like that feeling every once and a while for a lowly hobbiest! 🤓) Another mixture that was found successful, when comparing sand, perlite, sawdust, peat, marc, or wood chips, was a combination of 30:70 perlite:sand*. Others have really liked a 1:1:1 mix of vermiculite, perlite, and peat.

   * If using sand, please be sure to use a coarse sand appropriate for gardening. Some sands have a high salt content and must be avoided, others are too fine, such as playground sand. The most commonly available sand sold at Home Depot and Lowes that is good for this application is washed all-purpose builders sand.

   Also be sure to not firmly pack in your rooting mix, put it in loosely to remain “fluffy” and do not press it in hard around the cutting.

   

8. Some feel fungus gnats contribute to root rot and cutting losses. 🦟 Fungus gnats feed on fungus that grows on organic matter, their larvae can feed on plant roots. The best way to eliminate them for indoor growing is to eliminate organic matter from your rooting mix. This means no compost and no commercial potting mix which often contains compost or other natural fertilizers that are decomposing. These can come pre-contaminated with fungus gnat eggs from sitting outside in store yards. Focus on using a mineral-based mix instead. The three mentioned above are great for that. There is also this article here and this one here which talk about other things that can be used. I highly recommend giant Butterworts/Pinguiculas in your rooting area, a type of carnivorous plant that is easy to care for and eats fungus gnats. I have never needed to use Gnatrol or mosquito bits with the methods mentioned and do not recommend them unless absolutely needed as they may upset soil microbial balance.

9. Some find rooting outdoors ☀️ during the growing season is easier than indoors. Being outside exposed to the elements eliminates a lot of the issues experienced in an indoor environment. For example, there is usually better air flow, potting mixes can dry out faster, fungus gnats are blown away, temperatures do not need to be regulated, no heat mats, and no grow lights. There is also better microbial exposure outdoors. Just make sure to wait until it is warm enough and to keep them out of direct sun while rooting.

   

10. If rooting is just not your thing, try grafting. Many who have had issues rooting end up loving grafting as an alternative for cutting propagation.

    

It is important to understand that we can do everything right and still end up with rotted cuttings. So much more is involved than just rooting technique. Variety and nutrient stores also play a role in success. The hormones present in the cutting itself can have a bearing as well. The location on the tree from which the cutting was taken has an effect on results. If or how a seller stored the cuttings prior to shipping can make a difference. There are so many things outside of our control. So don't lose heart if you had some losses!

If you’re someone who supplies cuttings, do your best to ensure your trees have access to all of the nutrients, particularly calcium and micros. Nutrients stores of certain trace minerals can affect how quickly something germinates. Keep the biology healthy and present with mycorrhizae and other microbes so that your plants are uptaking minerals. This is important especially as we get closer to dormancy and cutting season so that these nutrients are being stored and are at the ready for new growth.

I hope this helps and provides some tips. May you have the greatest success this cutting season and I hope to hear all about your new plants!

Or what about that variety we just really don’t care for that has all of this fruit on it? Breba with zero flavor? Stringy squashes?

I’m glad you asked, friend! Here is what to do: Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ).

The way nature feeds itself is by causing excess, damaged, or old to drop onto the ground around the plant or tree, all the microbes and bugs break down this material, and the matter is incorporated into the dirt to make fertile soil. (You all know this as we’ve talked about it before, this is for the new people.) This adds back all of the minerals needed, it incorporates enzymes, proteins, and carbon matter, and it builds up microbial colonies that plants need for food and communication. This is also how nature propagates itself. It allows seeds to take root in a nutritious, microbial-rich environment so that the plant system goes on.

How does this translate to the modern gardener though?

It’s one thing to have plants sprouting up in the wild, another thing to have tons of volunteers in your own garden. I hear you on that! Some are into wild gardening, self-seeding, landraces, and what not; others like it more organized and contained. Here’s what you can do if you’re the latter:

1. Return all plant matter to the soil when growing in-ground, (not with fertilized seeds if avoiding volunteers.) ◦ For annuals: Leave the roots in the ground. Cut the upper part of the plant down and into pieces if you can, mix it a bit into the soil, and top it with some additional soil, compost, or wood chips if you like. ◦ For perennials: Leave any leaf litter and fruit on the ground around the plant. Everything will break down by spring and you will have more fertile ground for your next season.

2. Make fermented plant extracts. There are many ways of doing this. You can read about JADAM Liquid Fertilizer here, which is one method. Another method is from Korean Natural Farming (KNF) and is called Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ) when using leafy material, flower buds, or immature fruits and Fermented Fruit Juice (FFJ) when using ripe fruits. FPJ typically is used during vegetative growth stages and FFJ is used during fruit production stages. This allows you to create a liquid fertilizer that returns nutrients to the plants without having it break down in your pots or around your plants.

   (Note I will just use “FPJ” in this article referencing both for simplicity.)

Why should you use FPJ?

• It is super easy and quick to make — it’s ready in one week!

• It’s almost free, the only thing purchased is brown sugar, so it is very low-cost.

• It is low to no odor, unlike JLF, and can be used indoors, outdoors, or in foliar sprays.

• It can be made at any time throughout the season.

• It is shelf-stable and can last a long time.

• It has a high dilution, so a little goes a long way.

• It can be made at any scale, small to large, indoors.

• You can use almost anything that grows in your yard to make it.

• Plants love this stuff! It is loaded with nutrients and good biology.

According to the University of Hawaii, “The brown sugar draws the juices out of the plant material via osmosis and also serves as a food source for the microbes carrying out the fermentation process. The weak alcohol produced during fermentation extracts chlorophyll (soluble in ethanol) and other plant components. It is non-toxic and edible.”

FPJ becomes liquid gold in that it is rich and teeming with nutrients and minerals. It is used diluted as seed and soil treatments and for plant nutrition. Because it is a lactic acid bacterial ferment, it can be used like other LAB products in the garden and around the yard. You can use leafy weeds in your yard to make a mineral-rich fertilizer. Dandelions, nettles, comfrey, and more are great for this! You can also use any fresh, green leaf matter, flowers, buds, vegetables, or fruit from your garden to make a plant-specific fertilizer.

Usually, a specific plant is used in FPJ for fertilizing that same exact type of plant. So FPJ made from tomatoes would be used for fertilizing tomato or other nightshade family plants. Blueberry FPJ is used to fertilize blueberry or other berry plants. FPJ made from figs is used to fertilize figs or other fruit trees. Some can have more crossover with all plants, such as FPJ from weeds, squash, melons, berries, or tree fruits, but nightshade FPJ should only be used with its own type. (Nightshades being tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, etc.) FPJ from citrus or grapes should only be used on their respective plants as well. This is because these plants have compounds that inhibit the growth of other plants but work perfectly fine on their own type.

For most fruiting trees and plants, you generally just use the fruit to make FPJ. However, with figs, you can use either the leaves or the fruits. Other plants with good leafy or flower material in addition to fruit can be used similarly when it doesn't inhibit growth or production.

FPJ is almost like homeopathy for plants in that it uses very small doses with mineral traces but brings big benefits. It starts at dilution rates of 1:1000 or 1:500. One tablespoon of fermented plant juice added to 4 gallons of water is a 1:1000 ratio, two tablespoons a 1:500 ratio. So if you make 1 quart of FPJ and dilute it at the 1:500 ratio, that will make you 500 quarts or 125 gallons of amendment.

The recipe can be scaled to any volume, small or large. It is used large scale on farms in Hawaii and other places. It all comes down to how much brown sugar you wish to buy and how much plant material you have available for it. There are some great YouTube videos by Chris Trump showing KNF amendments on a larger scale if this is something that interests you. Or, you can just have a small pint jar amount that you use only for starting seeds or cuttings. It’s all up to you.

For myself, I get 7.5 lbs of organic brown sugar from Costco and am able to make a bucket full of amendment for about $8. This lasts throughout the entire season for all of my fig trees. I use tomato FPJ for seed starting my tomato plants. It’s great for a seed soak and for fertilizing while they are growing indoors. I use fig FPJ in a soak for starting my cuttings and to fertilize them while growing indoors as well. I also use it in my foliar sprays throughout the growing season outdoors.

Principles of collection

According to traditional KNF, you should collect the plant material you will use for FPJ at dawn*, before the sun is up, as this is when plant leaves and fruits have the most energy in them. This is because during the day, photosynthesis and transpiration are causing a lot of flow throughout the plant, moving nutrients and water all around. The plant stores and deposits this collected energy during the night. So at sunrise, we are getting plant material with the highest deposits of photosynthates and minerals stored in them. Plus, doing it then can bring a bit of a spiritual connection to your growing as well, which adds another dimension to it all. There are insightful moments to be had at dawn when you’re out there in the waning quiet of the night, watching the sun come up, alone with your thoughts, … (And looking out for snakes, black widows, scorpians, and other large creepy crawlies humans aren’t meant to be eye to eye with. 😱 That fear definitely brings out the spiritual side of things for some! 😜)

Lactic acid bacteria and yeasts are populated on the outside of the plant material. FPJ utilizes these surface microbial populations to carry out the fermentation process. If this is removed, it may not ferment properly or produce as much plant juice. So we do not want to wash the plant material and avoid collecting it after a rainfall. Ideally, wait at least two sunny days before collecting after a rain.

This process requires fresh materials with water content, so dehydrated, crispy, or fibrous, woody things cannot be used for FPJ. If it’s something you could juice, then it likely will work. You can use overripe, underripe, damaged or bug-eaten plant matter as long as it is fresh from the plant. Flowers and flower buds can also be used. Do not use anything that is moldy or spoiled as it can affect the microbes that are cultivated.

The stage of growth the plant matter is collected at will affect the type of nutrients present and when used, is applied in the corresponding stages on plants; i.e. young, green, and fast growth material is used for fertilizing vegetative growth, ripe fruits are used for fertilizing during fruiting stages, and so on.

If we are being very technical to KNF standards, then only young growth would be used from vigorous, fast-growing, healthy plants. It is these that would be at the height of nutrition and hormone levels. However, sometimes we need to start where we need to start, which in some cases is less than ideal vigor or health, but it still will provide benefit that will build up plant health, particularly in the microbial aspect.

It goes without saying, do not use poisonous plants.

* Confession: I do not get mine at the crack of dawn. I’m an insomniac with a job. But that is ideal if you can do it.

What do you need to make it?

• Brown sugar of equal weight to your plant material, plus a little extra for the top. Other natural, unrefined sugars can be used like panela or jaggery. (Do not use liquid sweeteners like molasses, maple syrup, or honey; do not use white, refined, or bleached sugar.)

• A scale to weigh your plant material and brown sugar.

• A jar, pail, or other container to ferment in. Avoid metal containers which can react with the solution. Use glass or food-grade plastic.

• A clean cloth,(like a tea towel, a cotton t-shirt, or muslin,) or a paper towel large enough to completely cover the top of your container; and a rubber band or string to hold it in place.

• Freshly collected fruit, vegetables, leaves, or flowers straight from the plant chopped into approximately 1-3 inch pieces or smaller. Smaller pieces will break down faster. Do not wash the plant material! (Juicier plant material can be larger and will break down faster; dryer or dense plant material should be smaller and more finely chopped.)

How to do it?

(This fermentation method is similar to sauerkraut, except that it uses a quantity of brown sugar instead of salt.)

Step 1: Gather and cut plant material. Collect your plant materials first thing in the morning while dew is still on them. Cut up the material into approximately 1 to 3-inch-sized pieces. Anything whole, like a fruit or bud, needs to be cut open. A blender or food processor can also be used.

Step 2: Mix plant material with brown sugar in a 1:1 ratio. Weigh your plant material and thoroughly mix it with an equal weight of brown sugar in a bowl. Make sure all plant surfaces are covered with sugar to the degree possible to start the osmotic process.

Step 3: Fill your container tightly to slightly over ⅔ full. Add the mixed plant material and brown sugar into the container you will use to ferment in. Press and pack the material down into the jar to remove air pockets. Top with an extra layer of brown sugar to help keep everything submerged and below the sugar.

The volume in the container should be approximately ⅔ full throughout the ferment. The volume will go down a certain amount in the first day depending on the type of plant material used. So you may want to overfill to ¾ or to the top when using fluffier or chunky plant material. Ripe fruits usually become syrupy almost immediately and should not fill the container more than ⅔ from the start depending on particle size, ¾ max if there are large chunks. (More on this in step 6.)

☇ Note: For denser or less juicy plant materials, it can be helpful to add a weight at the top, such as a rock or glass of water. (Avoid plastic or metal weights.) This will help to facilitate osmotic pressure to release the plant juices.

Step 4: Clean up the outside of the container. Wipe off the outside of your fermentation container with apple cider vinegar to remove any sugar residue to avoid attracting insects.

Step 5: Cover with a cloth and secure it. Cover your fermentation container with a cloth and use a rubber band or string to keep it attached. This is to keep out insects and any other debris as it ferments while also allowing gases to escape. Paper towels should be replaced if they become wet or torn.

Step 6: Check after 24 hours and then let ferment undisturbed for one week. Leave the covered container in a spot out of light at room temperature for about a week. Liquid should start to form within the first day. Check after 24 hours to make sure that all materials are remaining submerged and that granulated sugar isn’t collecting at the bottom undissolved. If it is, give it a stir.

In order for the fermentation process to occur properly, the volume of the plant material and brown sugar mixture should settle to ⅔ of the container after 24 hours. If the container is too full, the microbes will not have enough air to properly ferment. Either remove some of the plant material until the container is no more than ⅔ full or change it to a larger container. If the container is less than ⅔ full, add more of the mixture to prevent mold growth, or change to a smaller container. The ⅔ is not an exact or hard rule, it can fudge a little, but is something to be aware of in case you have any issues.

Not all plants will settle in the same way, so it is good to check and adjust the volume after the first 24 hours. You will notice more of a difference when using leafy materials as opposed to juicy fruits which tend to break down almost immediately.

It is okay if it goes a little longer than one week, but eventually it will turn into something else that may not be as desirable or useful. Warmer weather will speed things up (3-5 days), cooler weather will slow it down (7-10 days). The average fermentation time is 5-7 days. When it is done, the plant solids will float to the top and the liquid will be separated below it. The end product should smell unique but not off-putting.

Step 7: Separate the liquid from the solids and store. Strain and drain the liquid into another container using a funnel and mesh sieve or a layered cheesecloth. This can happen quickly or may take several hours depending on the viscosity of the fluid. The amount of liquid produced will vary by the amount of moisture that was in the plant material.

Store the liquid in a jar with a loose lid. Note that the solution is alive and may continue to produce gases. In such a case, do not use a tight lid as the container can explode. (I technically have never had this happen and have used tight lids. But because this is the internet, that realistic warning needs to be there just in case. All it takes is one time and I value your eyeballs. 👀)

If the liquid should start to foam in storage, add more brown sugar to eliminate it. If you see mold, skim it off and add more brown sugar.

Discard, compost, or further extract the solids. Plant material that is higher in minerals, such as weeds, can be further extracted with vinegar using the method discussed in this article.

Application: Apply once per week as a foliar spray or watered into the soil. Dilution is typically 1:500 to 1:1000. A higher dilution should be used when mixing a cocktail of inputs together or when using on very young plants.

Here are some videos if you need more of a visual for how to make FPJ or FFJ:

↑ One of my gardening heroes and has other videos on his channel discussing the use of FPJ. He does more of a layered style here with the plant material and brown sugar. But mixing it a little longer until you start to feel some moisture release is ideal and the sugar will stay put a little better.

↑ The OG of KNF YouTube videos! This is how it’s done.

↑ A good video on FFJ. I disagree with his use of white sugar, brown sugar has more nutrients and plant benefits, ultimately use what you have access to. His other points are sound though.

↑ In Spanish, but uses figs so I had to share it of course! You can see how pasty and broken down they become immediately, unlike FPJs with leaves. Make sure to leave a gap at the top of the jar with this one, it will rise!

There are a ton of videos on YouTube of people making FPJ/FFJ or variations of it. Of course, I recommend binging them if you like all in the name of research! 😉

So… There you go! Doing as nature does, except indoors and with fewer insects. I hope you all try this, it is a fantastic input for plants. It encourages the biology needed and is a full-circle product. Have you ever made FPJ before? What do you think of it??

Location: West Chester, Pennsylvania, zone 7A

My name is Mike Piersimoni, I’m 73, and a father of three. I worked in the printing industry throughout my entire career and was also a professional photographer. I’ve been retired for the last eight years. I’m known as the Fig Sensei on Facebook. My other hobbies are cooking, health, and music.

I’ve been an avid gardener for over 40 years. I basically just got into growing fruit, and figs were the first ones that I thought of because of a great-uncle who had a giant fig tree growing at his home. At the moment, I have 80 varieties. I have 25 trees in the ground and the rest in pots.

My favorite thing for growing is good-quality compost that I make myself. As well as a lot of other homemade amendments like fish emulsion, fermented plant juice, fermented fruit juice, indigenous microorganisms, phosphorus-solubilizing bacteria, and fermented fruit juice — basically these are the backbones of my growing.

Everything absolutely grows better and healthier from using these which to me is very important. There are people who say that figs in a pot don't taste as good as figs in the ground. There is some truth to that because the figs in the ground have access to a lot more things than just NPK, which is what most people just put in pots. If the soil in your pot is as rich with minerals and nutrients, not just nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, but all the extra micronutrients that the fungi and other bacteria can pull, then your trees will be healthier, able to withstand diseases and pests better, and produce nutritionally superior fruit. Plants and trees have a microbiome just like we do and we need to take care of that, that is if you're a serious fruit and vegetable grower and not just a one-tree pony.

The biggest tip I can offer for growing figs is patience. The other is to immerse yourself in the culture. I find growing can be both challenging and rewarding. The most frustrating thing is that I can’t control the weather, it's the biggest factor that affects things beyond what you feed your trees.

The actual growing experience I enjoy even more than eating the figs themselves. Growing figs hasn’t changed me but has extended me in a way that just keeps me going. There’s always something for me to do and when you reach my age, you need to keep busy living or busy dying. I choose the former.

My favorite fig varieties are the berry figs, although honey figs are excellent too. A few of my top tasting varieties are known figs you can purchase such as, Figo Preto aka Black Madeira, Martinenca Rimada, Maltese Beauty, Black Zadar, and more. I have a number of heirloom varieties that I’ve been collecting along with their histories. These are unusual varieties, not your typical Mt. Etna-type figs.

I haven’t disliked any fig, there’s a place for just about all of them. But some of the typical Mt. Etna types I am a bit tired of as far as fresh figs, but they do make wonderful fig jam. So I still grow those also.

I know I will always keep growing figs but I have expanded into berries, apples, nectarines, cherries, and some ground fruit like cantaloupe and watermelon.

Two years ago, I started my own Facebook group called Fig Tree Organics. It’s a private group with 5,500 members as of the moment. It’s dedicated only to figs and only to people who grow organically or wish to learn how to grow using organics only. I’m always online answering people’s questions. I sell fig trees and ship them and my customers always have personal access to me with any questions.

Two years ago, one of my members who was an assistant director at the Althouse Arboretum in Pottstown, PA offered their location to sponsor my fig fest. People have traveled there from Maine to Tennessee. This season we had 450 people show up and a half a dozen large fig tree vendors and nurseries. Channel 6 news was there and did a small piece for the Arboretum. Here is a link to their video of it.

We had 1/2 a dozen workshops — everything from starting cuttings to general fig knowledge and pruning. We even had Brian Melton from California do a live Zoom broadcast on grafting. The Arboretum is sponsored by Green Allies which is a nonprofit group teaching young people environmental preservation, health, and wellness.

We plan on having the Fig Fest every season. The Arboretum has done very well and they're very pleased with the turnouts. If anyone wishes to know about the next one, all my advertising is in my Fig Tree Organics group on Facebook, linked above, plus I post almost monthly from June until the week of the fest on a number of other sites in the tri-state area. The Arboretum sends out notices to local newspapers and news outlets. We just keep hoping it gets bigger and better so get the word out to anyone who wishes to go there. We are close to the Amish country and there are lots of small towns to visit within half an hour of Pottstown. Lots of antiquing going on. Good food and great countryside.

Thank you, Mike, for the interview! I love your use of organics and your experience echoes my own with the many benefits. Hopefully, more chuck the limitations with NPK-only growing and get on the fermentation train for the ultimate in plant and soil health. That fig fest sounds awesome as well, hope many get to check out next year’s festival. And guys… do you see these fig pics??? How rich are those colors?! 😍

YES, I know this is early, (I say as I’m munching figs still. 😏) But some of you live in colder places than I do, and I need to get you all primed and ready before it actually happens. This is your heads up so you can make any needed preparations.

When dormancy breaks in spring, a plant will start mobilizing the nutrients it stored before going to sleep in winter. This is what a tree is going to get first and is going to have a bearing on all of the early growth. All of that crucial cell formation and invisible stuff that happens inside a tree before we ever know anything is afoot is going to rely on stored nutrients. Nutrients applied now are also what are going to be used in critical early stages of fruit development. In addition, this is what is going to determine breba quality for next year. Do you have yucky breba? Maybe lack of nutrient stores are in part why? And you know those odd looking first leaves that sometimes come out? All of this is what helps to prevent that.

Nutrients we want to focus on now are calcium, boron, manganese, potassium, zinc, and copper. These nutrients also help with freeze resistance. This plays a role during winter and also on early growth that may get late frost exposure. So this is something we want to give a certain priority to as things are winding down.

After-harvest to-do list:

✓ Foliar spray while leaves are still viable

Spring growth can move rapidly and leaves are usually small and low in number then, while foliar applications are still useful at that time for the advancing season, they won’t have as much of an early effect as nutrients applied now. So now is the time to do foliar applications of the above nutrients before the leaves turn color and drop.

✓ Fermented plant juice

We can also use any poorer quality late season fruit from this time to make fermented plant juice (FPJ). FPJ is excellent as a nutrient source for the crop it is taken from. A plant uses the fruit for its own reproduction. The seeds contained in it are inoculated with beneficial microbes and are provided nutrients from it as the fruit breaks down. This is copying what nature uses as a food source for new plants. I love using this for feeding rooting cuttings and for foliar spraying my trees during growth and fruit set. This is also a favorite for tomato seedlings started indoors.

✓ Soil applied nutrients

Fall is also the time to do any soil applications of nutrients, such as calcium or rock dusts. These nutrients extracted by microbes are not water soluble and so will not leach out or wash away. This is especially applicable if you get spring rains or have wet conditions.

Now is the time to apply soil biology — think composts or manure. Biology applied now has about 6 months to establish populations in the soil and to build up nutrient reserves. This makes everything at the ready for early spring growth, which can’t happen if you only apply in the spring, as it will only have a few weeks at best then to take hold before it is needed. This established biology will have stockpiled nutrients in the soil and this will be used in that early flush of growth in spring. Having a robust system of biology will provide consistent nutrition throughout the growing season as opposed to limited reserves that are quickly used up.

✓ Leaf litter

Humification happens in cold weather when the soil is at rest. This is how the soil rejuvenates itself and is really important for adding carbon back to the soil. We want to keep all of the leaves that fall around our trees. We can run a lawn mower over them if desired to help break them down and speed up the process. This leaf litter is what the tree is using to provide minerals and carbon matter for itself in the next growing season. Allowing this process is how we ensure nutrient reserves are not depleted from the soil. These carbon structures are what transform dirt into soil and it results in stable humic substances that cannot be further degraded. These will provide energy to crops in spring and they reduce oxidation in the soil. This is also what helps to build fungal dominance in our soils. (This also applies to crop residues from vegetable plants. Any roots from them should be left in the soil and the upper plant cut to the ground.)

If you have potted plants, you can collect the leaves, break them down, and use them as mulch in your pots. You also can use them in your worm bins if you make your own worm castings. They can be used in compost as well. Whatever you do, make sure to utilize them in a way that will be returned to the plant.

Leaf litter and crop residues will not spread diseases or pests because the matter they were living off of is completely broken down over winter. Those things go away as they can only inhabit materials that are low in health and in that half-dead state, which are not our trees! In general, these residues are left on top of soils, but it can be helpful to break them down a bit and to incorporate them in the top few inches of soil. You can also place compost or wood chips on top of them and/or spray them with LABS or EM-1 to help facilitate breakdown.

✓ Neem oil spray for lingering pests

It is quite common to see pest and disease-type issues as fall approaches. If you remember from my article on electricity, Eh-pH changes throughout the different seasons, as you can see in this chart:

You can see soils become more oxidized and alkaline at this time which makes conditions conducive to breakdown, as is the natural process. Leaves may start looking a little funky as well since the tree may have exhausted nutrient supplies if they weren’t regularly maintained during fruiting. All of this is to be expected. However, if you have concerns about pests or disease, now is a good time use a spray with pure cold-pressed neem oil on the trunk, branches, and remaining leaves before any pests hide for the winter.

You can emulsify neem with potassium silicate (AgSil 16H) which will also give a potassium & silica boost to your trees. The ratio is 1.5 grams (just under 1/2 teaspoon) of potassium silicate with 1/2 ounce of neem oil. Mix the two together really well and then slowly add in 1 gallon of water while stirring. Spray all plant surfaces and undersides until it runs off. Make sure to spray in the evening when the sun is not on your trees.

… Okay, now you’re done!

**RELIEVED SIGH** Yessss, now we can relax. Now we can start thinking pumpkin spice everything. We can get that warm beverage and cozy up with a good book or movie. Our season of relaxing and rejuvenation is almost here too…

Unless this is in your future, in which case you have my sympathy! Oh, the woes of winter. 🥶

Think happy thoughts knowing your spring is going to be awesome because of all your fall-applied nutrients!

I appreciate you and thank you for being a reader here. I hope you’ve been having fantastic figs this season. Here’s to many more next year!

Type: Common

Family: Likely Atreano

Flavor Group: Red Berry (caprified), Honey Berry (not caprified)

Season: Mid

Breba Crop: Yes

Origin: Sabatucci Watermill San Vito, Teramo, Italy

Possible synonyms: Unknown

How To Pronounce

(rē′ō)

Description

Rio is a fig that was shared by Mario DiNatale. It is very good and a favorite this season. In Mario’s notes, he has it listed as a yellow fig with many doubles, and stated it is “very nice well worth growing.” I completely agree with him that it is worth growing. Mine have been more yellowish green with a bright red center.

Mario has ripening dates in mid-September, however for me, it started ripening in early to mid-August. So it likely is solidly mid-season for ripening. It is a variety prone to sunburn, so upping potassium in the 2nd & 3rd stage of fig growth may be helpful as a preventative if you get heat waves like I do.

The birds have really enjoyed this fig, annoyingly so 😆, and I was getting little tastes on the halves they were leaving behind which were sooo good. I finally was able to get some whole ones though, and they were well worth the wait. I have loved this fig this season! It’s flavor is very much like those in the Adriatic family, that classic red berry flavor. But what sets it apart is that it seems to have a little extra zing in there and isn’t as cloyingly sweet like some can be. This isn’t a sticky-sweet spoonful of sugary jam, but a just right sweetness that is delightful to the palate.

I am uncertain if mine were caprified, I didn’t test for it. It is unusual for me to have a whole tree of figs wasp pollinated, but pictures of this from the East coast look lighter than all of mine which has me thinking they were indeed pollinated. That of course influences my flavor description. One grower back East describes the taste as sweet, mild honey with tropical hints, even pineapple, and states that it is delicious. So who knows, maybe this fig is a two for one special? Hand pollinate a few and leave others not pollinated and see which you like best. Either way, you’re likely to have something yummy!

»» Do you have pictures of Rio that you would like to add to this variety’s gallery? Let me know in the comments or DM!

Location: Zone 8B Jackson, SC

Please introduce yourself and tell us a little about how you grow and got into figs…

My name is Ryan and I have been growing figs for 6 years now in Jackson, SC. I studied horticulture and business management in college and worked at commercial nurseries growing perennial and woody ornamentals for over a decade. Utilizing the knowledge gained from working in the green industry, my wife and I decided to open our own plant nursery where we started growing kiwi, blackberry, pineapple guava, pomegranate, native species for pollinators, and carnivores. In our second year of production, figs entered the picture and the collection grew to over a hundred varieties thanks to generous members on the OurFigs forum. I also started grafting new varieties of pawpaw, persimmon, plum, pear, and apple to trial at our farm and expand our edible assortment. Our goal from the start was to grow species and cultivars that thrive in our climate and are not commonly available from other nurseries.

In 2019 I visited a friend from college and saw that he was growing many different varieties of fig trees. Up to that point in time, I was only aware of varieties such as Brown Turkey, Celeste, and Violette de Bordeaux. He gave me a Chicago Cold Hardy and Olympian fig tree which started me on my journey into the world of figs. I quickly found the OurFigs forum online and joined to connect with other fig growers from around the world and learn what varieties had performed best in their climate and tips on how to propagate them from cuttings. It was amazing to see how many different fig flavors were available within cultivated varieties with my favorite being complex berry flavors.

I’m currently growing over 100 varieties of figs after culling around 40 last year due to them having similar flavors or low productivity. My culled varieties aren’t disposed of but rather repurposed as mature rootstock to graft new varieties onto them the following spring. I don’t have an exact count on total potted fig trees other than that I’m running out of space in the 30x72’ high tunnel. Once winter arrives and all trees are dormant, I’ll review my season notes and figure out which varieties didn’t make the cut to make space for new arrivals.

I started growing figs in 3, 7, and 15-gallon pots with 6-8 hours of direct sun using overhead irrigation and an aged ground pine bark soil mix with Florikan 18-6-8 (270-day) controlled release fertilizer. They grew well in the first year but didn’t put on as much growth as I had expected so I started researching other fig soil mixes online that winter. I discovered that figs love exceptionally well-drained soil with plenty of pore space for gas exchange along with calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), and calcined clay. To supply the Ca, Mg, and S, dolomitic limestone was mixed with the soil at planting and then gypsum was topdressed a few weeks later. Calcined clay was mixed with the soil at planting to add porosity in addition to improving nutrient retention. My base soil mix was still composed of aged pine bark that I started with in the beginning but I updated it with larger bark pieces for enhanced drainage.

The following year the fig trees grew so much faster and were significantly more productive in the new soil. The only caveat being that you could not miss watering them multiple times each day or else the leaves would be toast. To simplify daily irrigation, Primerus spot spitters were installed in 7 and 15-gallon pots on a timer that runs 2-3x/day depending on the season. All trees also receive liquid fertilizer (20-20-20 or 5-12-26 coupled with Epsom salt) 1-2x/week from early Spring until the first week of July. I stop fertilizing at this point to slow them down vegetatively and allow for more lignification before winter arrives.

Once the cooler weather of fall arrives, lower leaves on the fig trees will start to yellow and abscise so the irrigation times are reduced. This is also important for figs ripening in cooler weather as they are more prone to split if the soil is kept too wet with high humidity in the high tunnel. A topdressing of dolomitic limestone is applied either in late fall or early winter so that the trees are ready for the coming spring. Once the trees are dormant and devoid of foliage, remove all figs that didn’t ripen and debris from the high tunnel floor. Sanitation of the growing area is of utmost importance to ensure your trees have a clean start the following spring. As for watering the trees in winter, 1-2x/month is the most they’ll receive with the goal of keeping the soil lightly moist and promoting healthy root growth.

Fig trees are sprayed with horticultural oil in winter at least twice to knock out scale, mites and any other insect trying to overwinter on the fig tree stems. Make sure to coat all surfaces well especially focusing on tight crevices at branch junctions where scale loves to hide. 30 days after the last horticultural oil application and before budbreak occurs, apply micronized wettable sulfur which acts as an additional layer of protection against pests and pathogens. Sulfur sprays are then continued after budbreak and throughout the growing season every 1-2 weeks based on scouting results.

What are your favorite items for growing?

Dosatron fertilizer injector with the buddy cart. We grow hundreds of different species along with figs so being able to fertigate throughout the farm makes the Dosatron a necessity. Just mix up your fertilizers into a 5-gallon bucket, insert the siphon hose, and turn on the water and it’s proportionally mixed at the selected concentration. The cart allows for easy transport across the farm for an all-in-one modular fertilization solution.

The battery fogger is used for both protective sprays and foliar feeding and allows for more even coverage throughout the fig trees especially when they’re over 10’ tall. I use a combination of sulfur, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and fish emulsion throughout the growing season to strengthen the fig trees against pests and pathogens.

Any top tips for growing figs you’d like to share?

Plant in a well-drained soil mix so that when water is applied it quickly drains through it. Pooling water on top of the soil after watering is a sign that your soil needs better drainage. Water 1-2x/day at a minimum as a well-drained soil is hard to overwater and the fig tree will thank you by putting on an immense amount of growth.

Figs love calcined clay at a ratio of 1 gallon per 7 gallons of soil mix. It aids in drainage and nutrient retention. It is sold as Saf-T-Sorb at Tractor Supply.

Dolomitic limestone, gypsum, and diatomaceous earth as topdressings are loved by fig trees. Roots will readily jump above the existing soil mix and quickly branch into the topdressings to take up all the nutrients they provide.

At budbreak start with a high nitrogen fertilizer such as 20-20-20 for the first 3-4 weeks to get them off to an explosive start watering both the foliage and soil weekly. Switch to 5-12-26 or other lower nitrogen fertilizer after that point biweekly for the rest of the season as needed in your climate. Stop feeding by August so that growth can lignify and prepare for winter.

What are your biggest joys and pains in growing figs?

From propagation to ripening the first fig of a new variety, the entire process of growing and caring for the fig tree is a passionate pursuit worth doing repeatedly. Eating a perfectly ripened fig is such a treat especially when you can graft new varieties and experience their flavor in the same year.

Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD) arrive starting in August and they are notorious for spoiling ripening figs. It’s a constant battle to bag figs right as they’re starting to swell to keep the SWD from depositing eggs in their ostioles. Foxes, raccoons, and opossums also love to steal figs during the night even if they’re bagged which can be disheartening when a new variety is just one day away from being perfect. I grow taller trees with less branching so that figs higher in the tree are out of their reach and also try to remove spoiled figs regularly which our chickens and ducks thoroughly enjoy.

What are your favorite varieties to grow?

Complex berry-flavored figs with a honey-filled center and buttery thick texture. Some examples of my current favorites are Vince #3, Irene’s Black Greek, Ondata, Moscatel Preto, Smith, NV1, Green Michurinska, Calderona, and Cessac.

Any least favorites?

Very large fig varieties simply do not perform well in our high tunnel with high humidity as their ostioles love to split open when nearly ripe. They are magnets for SWD, wasps, and bees. Stella, Grigio, Yellow Long Neck, Belleclare #46 White Greek, and Robert’s Golden Rainbow to name a few. In a hot and dry climate with low humidity, they would perform much better.

What are you looking forward to most in the near future?

Ripening new varieties that were grafted this spring or are in their first year of good production after a strong first year of growth. Augusta Purple, Balafi, Barran, Boysenberry Blush, Brocalet, Can Planetes, Constans, Corallo, Del Bisbe, Early Adriatic, Green Goblin, HSK Unk, LSU St Gabriel Black, Nero di Rocca, Portugal 80, Pota de Cavall, Ruby Rose, Santa Claus Lane, Sicilian 33, Texas Peach, and White Algiers.

Most of these varieties now have figs present in varying sizes which I’m hoping will ripen this year. Figs can continue ripening well into November in a high tunnel even with cooler fall temperatures.

It has always been my dream to grow plants for a living so I will continue growing them for as long as I am able. We grow a wide assortment of plants so there are always new species or cultivars to trial that which keeps it interesting year after year. I’m especially fond of hybrid persimmons as they are delicious in fall and winter and require little maintenance once established.

Figs have definitely changed me for the better as growing them has required patience and meticulous attention to detail. From the beginning, I maintained a spreadsheet with notes for every variety in my collection. Information such as date acquired, source, ripening notes, fertilizer, soil mix, and propagation is updated whenever a change occurs. I’ve also really enjoyed reading The Fig Jam as I’ve learned lots of new techniques for fig production that I started incorporating this year. For example, adding potassium silicate into my foliar spray regimen has strengthened and improved my trees’ resistance to foliar pathogens like rust. I also learned from other growers to reduce nitrogen applied once figlets form and focus more on phosphorus and potassium which has yielded higher quality figs that don’t split as readily in adverse conditions. I’m grateful that so many others in the fig community share their fig growing experiences and have sought to do the same in my local community at events and workshops to inspire the next generation of fig growers.

Where can people find you?

Trusty Farms is the name of our farm and we are located in Jackson, SC (Aiken County). Our farm is open March-May for in-person shopping with hours listed on our website and Google Maps. The rest of the year plants can be purchased through our website for pickup by appointment, local delivery, or shipment nationwide except to AZ/AK/HI. I post farm updates regularly on Facebook to announce when fig trees and cuttings are available so please like or follow our page to stay informed. If you have any questions related to figs you can send me a message through any of the locations listed below.

Website: trustyfarms.com

Etsy: TrustyFarms

figBid: Trustyfarms

Facebook: Trusty Farms

Instagram: trustyfarm

OurFigs and FigFanatic: Trustyfarms

Thank you, Ryan, for the interview! That Saijo persimmon looks fantastic, the color has me like 🤯. You grow some fabulous fig varieties and it’s great that you help in spreading the fig love around. I still remember you and another person turning me on to carnivorous plants which have saved me from fungus gnats. I am forever grateful for that! So everyone, check out his site and see what he has there along with some beautiful pictures!

Type: Common

Family: Unknown

Flavor Group: Red Berry

Season: Mid

Breba Crop: No

Origin: Spain, Wild Figs Jesus or JW Figs on Facebook

Possible synonyms: None known

How To Pronounce

(kär dĭ NEE yō)

Description

Cardenillo is a wild fig from Spain that is popular in Asia, the US, and the tropics. The word “cardenillo” in Spanish means “verdigris” in English which is a type of green patina. It apparently is one that does well in a variety of climates including colder ones.

Cardenillo is a greenish-yellow fig with a vibrant red interior and tight eye. It is also one that is typically more oblate in shape, little to no neck, and can get cracks in the skin. This variety for me has not been very vigorous, in fact, it has remained quite short even after 4 years. Slower growth seems typical for this variety, though some do report having a more vigorous copy. It is also one that seems more prone to spoiling or Black Fig Fly issues. I’ve had it for several years but have never had a fig until now because of this reason. It really benefited this season from mineral nutrients, especially calcium and the other micros. So if you have a Cardenillo tree that is underperforming, really consider upping its nutrients and soil microbial content. The fruit size does increase as the tree matures.

I am so glad I have given this variety time because it is definitely one of my favorites this year. It has such a delicious berry fruit punch flavor and I have been fighting my dogs for who can get to them first. In fact, you can maybe tell from my pictures that I don’t have many to share here and I’m picking it earlier than usual just so I can have one! The flavor is complex with what comes across as a tropical note in there, it’s the first fig that made me think of that old kids’ drink Hawaiian Punch— though I haven’t had it in a long time to be fair and there’s nothing artificial about this fig’s taste. It definitely has a unique flavor profile that sets it apart from other figs. It’s also one that can be quite fragrant when you cut it open which is not a common thing with many figs. It is a very yummy and delicious fig that I will definitely hang on to.

»» Do you have pictures of Cardenillo that you would like to add to this variety’s gallery? Let me know in the comments or DM!

As many of you know, I have been trying to combat the Black Fig Fly using natural methods. So, how is it going this season? Here is a full report!

For those wondering what in the world a “black fig fly” is, this is a type of fruit fly that hit California really hard in the last few years. It is also found in other places around the world where figs typically grow. Its scientific name is Silba adipata McAlpine or Diptera: Lonchaeidae: Silba adipata. You can read more about it here and here. The Black Fig Fly (here on out abbreviated BFF,) lays eggs in the ostiole of small, unripe figs — usually between the blueberry and walnut sizes of a figlet. The larvae hatch inside the fig and then they eat through the fig as they tunnel their way out to later pupate in the ground before becoming juvenile flies. This process ruins the fig fruit before it even gets close to ripening and causes it to drop from the tree. So definitely an undesirable issue. This is just a quick, simple synopsis here, more details on BFF can be said and are on other sites.

What I’ve done in the past…

I have used McPhail traps with a fermented peach extract and erythritol bait successfully in the past. According to research studies, erythritol acts as a type of birth control in fruit flies, so it was added in case any flies managed to escape. It caught a TON of fruit flies, including the Walker fly which is a lookalike to BFF, and considerably reduced my losses. (Walker flies are often seen where BFF are, but they affect ripe or spoiling figs instead of baby green figs.) However, it was very labor-intensive to set up all of the traps for the quantity of fig trees I grow especially because the bait needed to be refreshed every few days. This added up in cost as well. I also found that not all McPhail traps are created equal as far as BFF is concerned. One brand (IPS Liquibaitor) would catch flies and the other brand (Scentry Multilure) would not catch any. This bait also caught a particular beneficial insect so I wasn’t too crazy about that.

I also tried sprays with essentials oils, in particular basil. This worked very well, but could burn the leaves if done too often or too strong. It also adds up in cost over time. However, certain essential oils seem to work very well as a deterrent to BFF. Linalool has been studied in research as affecting fruit flies’ abilities to oviposit and navigate correctly, basil is one EO that can have a high level of linalool. A side effect is that it also relaxes you as you spray it!

I’ve tried bagging my figs with mesh bags that have larger holes to allow for wasp pollination as well. These did work, but again this is labor-intensive and while there was still wasp pollination, it was a lot less than usual. There also seems to be an issue with bagging small figs in that they sometimes spoil or fall off.

Other people have tried whole tree netting with good success. Some of these also will still allow for wasp pollination. The caveat is that the tree needs to stay small and accessible enough to bag the whole tree and if you have many trees, again this is labor-intensive and adds up in cost. Still a really good option for many though.

Others have been having really good success using spinosad, especially when combined with molasses. I’m happy for those having success with this, but it is not an option I want to use. I find research on the human effects of these insecticides is often very limited. While spinosad is different, some of these insecticides, especially systemic ones, can break down into chemicals more harmful than the original form that linger in the plant. I also always wonder at the “other” ingredients which are not disclosed that make up the bulk of these sprays. Most especially though, I am trying to build up soil and canopy health; spraying insecticides has a negative effect on this and does exactly the opposite of what I am trying to accomplish. Again, this is me and my preference. You do you as they say. 🙂

Edited to add: I forgot about taping the ostiole! Many have done that with a lot of success. Some use medical tape, others painters tape, and yet others use Avery dot labels. I think this is another great option for preventing BFF issues. It does also stop wasp pollination, but if you’re up for hand pollinating, it can work very well hand in hand with that as well.

What I have done this season…

If you don’t know this, well you really need to check out the archive here! 😉 I have been detailing this quite extensively so there are a few articles to read if you’ve missed them. But in a nutshell, I have been trying to build up plant Brix levels in my trees as insects are only attracted to low Brix plants. (This is leaf Brix, not fruit Brix, and gives an indication of photosynthate and total dissolved solids in plants which in turn is an indicator of overall health.) I also have been using nutrients in harmony with redox potential (Eh-pH) to the extent possible.

To build up Brix, you need minerals, especially calcium and micros. I used a few fertigation units to water in JADAM liquid fertilizer, fish amino acids, water-soluble seaweed, and solution-grade gypsum. I also started foliar spraying weekly as the season began to help with this. I rotated what I sprayed by week.

Early in the season, I rotated LABS or EM-1, vinegar extracted calcium, seaweed and fulvic acid, and blackstrap molasses. Once I noticed the very start of main crop figlets forming, I added in ingredients that are known to repel insects. This included neem emulsified with potassium silicate every other week. I frequently used soap nut liquid as an emulsifier for my foliar sprays and it also can repel insects. I also added liquid smoke into the rotation later on as it has both health promoting benefits and can repel insects.

Liquid smoke is essentially wood vinegar, or at least a poor man’s form of it. Wood vinegar has a lot of benefits for plants and I was turned on to it by reading some of Earthly eccentrics articles mentioning it. If you buy liquid smoke, you need the type without additives, flavorings, or seasoning, like Lazy Kettle or Wright’s Liquid Smoke. The ingredients should just say smoke and water. I sprayed this diluted once a month.

The results so far…

I’ve only lost about 15 figs early in the season to BFF. That’s it out of hundreds of figs. Most of those lost were from the breba crop. I also had two trees that seemed especially affected by BFF this year, meaning more than one fig fruit had larvae.

The things is, I know my Brix levels are not up to the levels I want. I know this because I still have fig mites on a few trees, which indicates levels are low on those trees. I also had some leaf eaters on other trees earlier in the season.

So I’m not sure why my BFF losses are so low this year. It could be coincidence if the amount of BFF in my area is lower this year. But I think it more likely that the regular foliar spraying deterred them as the foliar sprays themselves have scent and BFF seems really sensitive to that. What I like about this is that it essentially killed two birds with one stone: 1) BFF was prevented, and 2) I did something that needed doing anyhow, which was building up my trees’ health. So I wasn't having to do extra work just to prevent BFF losses.

A side benefit of this was that certain fruit trees that weren't fruiting at all or fruiting little put out a lot of figs this year. This just shows how important nutrients are to plants whether you are dealing with insects or not. Getting that terrain right and conducive for health just brings so many benefits.

BFF seems to affect figs only through certain months for me, so I was able to cut down the frequency of foliar spraying starting in July which did not have any adverse effects. Whereas in years past, I had to keep up my efforts through to September to avoid BFF issues.

One potential negative aspect is that I lost a lot of Smyrna figs due to lack of pollination. This actually is not unusual for me as wasp pollination is not reliable here. But I feel it worth mentioning for full disclosure since I don’t know if neem or other things could interfere with that for others who do have reliable wasp pollination. That said, certain ones definitely were pollinated so I know a small amount of wasps did successfully visit some of my trees, hubba hubba. 😜

This is just an early update on the journey to high Brix trees. I still have a fair way to go, but I am pleased so far. Every person and area is different, so what works for me may not work for you. Just the same, I hope this inspires others to pursue plant health over poisons since health is the ultimate eliminator of problems like this no matter where you are growing.

Is anyone else here using natural methods to deal with BFF or other pests? What have you been doing to eliminate the problem and how do you like it? Or need more details on the things I’ve mentioned? Let me know in the comments below! ▼